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The real KFC (Korean fried chicken)
What am I doing in this basement in Harvard Square, reviewing the second location of a multi-national franchise chain?
| August 10, 2012
Old-style North End meets new-style cheffery
After a good run with "Italian tapas" under the name Damiano (a play on the given name of chef-owner Damien "Domenic" DiPaola), this space has been rechristened as Carmelina's — after the chef's mother and his first restaurant, opened when he was an undergraduate in Western Mass — and the menu reconfigured to feature more entrées.
| July 25, 2012
JP’s brilliant but erratic new bistro
Bad restaurant idea number 16: let's do a neighborhood bar-bistro where there already is one.
| July 06, 2012
Review: Happy’s Bar and Kitchen
The retro diner gets a little lost
In a year of bad restaurant ideas, one of the better bets is to have a successful fancy-food chef try a downscale restaurant.
| June 20, 2012
Review: Gennaro's 5 North Square
A daughter of Italy conquers the North End
In year of bad restaurant ideas (often done well), this the worst idea — and best meal — yet.
| June 18, 2012
Asian-fusion takes on tapas
Moksa, or moksha, is the concept in Buddhism and Hinduism of enlightenment by way of release from the mental bonds of reality.
| May 30, 2012
A dining hall with food not worth fighting for
In a year of bad restaurant ideas done surprisingly well, Vapiano is a mediocre idea done disastrously.
| May 25, 2012
Review: Thelonious Monkfish
Sure-handed sushi, all jazzed up
The name bit flipped all the cats and kitties and the squares and the cubes, but it ends up jive; don't jibe with the vibe.
| May 16, 2012
Review: Sabzi Persian Chelow Kabab
Persian classics and outstanding kebabs
From the point of view of fine dining, a key benefit of America's foreign interventions is the stream of incoming refugees and immigrants with slow-food-cooking skills.
| May 11, 2012
Review: First Printer
Southern success via strong statements
First Printer is located on the site of the former home of Stephen Daye — reportedly the first printer in British North America — and commemorates the craft with a wall of old type cases and some framed historic newspapers.
| April 23, 2012
Review: Vito’s Tavern
A sports bar grows in the North End
This column often deals with good ideas gone wrong. Vito's Tavern, in yet another proof of subatomic symmetry, is a cascade of bad ideas gone largely right.
| April 10, 2012
Review: The Cottage
Cal-Mex meets New England in Chestnut Hill
So what makes a one-star restaurant?
| March 28, 2012
Review: Area Four
All-day delights near Kendall Square
Area Four's Web site describes it as "Coffee, Bakery, Bar, Oven."
| March 14, 2012
Review: Pho Hoa
Another worthy take on Vietnamese beef and noodle soup
Dorchester's Pho Hoa offers quite a lot on the menu besides the eponymous soup, and no one should miss the roasted quail appetizer
| March 12, 2012
Ride the energy and go with what works
What works at Trade is the hard part: transforming a difficult industrial space on a street without foot traffic or parking into a lively dining room that lightly alludes to the mercantile past of Boston's Waterfront area, and invites the chatter of the marketplace.
| February 22, 2012
Review: Q Restaurant
A New Kind of Hot
You be careful what you ask for, and I'll be careful what I write.
| February 15, 2012
Review: The Salty Pig
A small-plate menu that goes full boar
A number of restaurants have failed in this odd multilevel space, stuck in a kind of cultural canyon between the Copley Place mall and the Tent City apartment complex.
| February 01, 2012
Review: Catalyst Restaurant
Some wonder sprinkled amid the uncertainty
So you have this very high-end chef, William Kovel, running a fancy hotel dining room, Aujourd'hui at the Four Seasons.
| January 25, 2012
Review: Papagãyo Mexican Kitchen and Tequila Bar
A skillful take on 'fake' Mexican
Papagãyo is the last of a group of tequila bars that has opened in Boston in the past couple of years, and I would not be overly sad to close the book.
| January 19, 2012
Review: Blue Nile Restaurant
Tasty new flavors from Ethiopia
Either this is the best Ethiopian food in Boston, or the whole scene has advanced greatly since the last time I got to review in this genre.
| January 09, 2012
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