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ROBERT NADEAU

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Review: Aragosta Bar and Bistro

A robust Italian take on locavore cuisine
Sensing, the previous restaurant in this Battery Wharf hotel/condo development, was locavore and high-church French, but too subtle. Aragosta proposes to solve that problem with a more robust cuisine focused on the most local of all ingredients: seafood.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 29, 2011

Review: Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House

A waterfront steakhouse worth the price
The good news — especially if someone else is paying — is that everything at Del Frisco's is pretty good, the view is incredible, and the service is relaxed.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 22, 2011

Review: Annabelle's Restaurant

American food searching for a niche
Hyde Park is the kind of neighborhood where the idea of a Dorchester businessman coming in to set up a restaurant is big stuff.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 15, 2011

Review: Ledge Kitchen & Drinks

A fantastic idea that needs inspiration
The idea of Ledge Kitchen & Drinks is fantastic: Irish contractors take over an old neighborhood bar in the most distant reaches of Dorchester, fix it up, and hire some young chefs to make it a gastropub. Even better, they put on a green roof so you can eat right from the garden, and they set up a 60-seat outdoor patio inside the block, so you are insulated from street noise.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 09, 2011

Review: The Maharaja

Postmodern roadhouse Indian by way of London
The three owners of The Maharaja have done a very good job redecorating the already handsome upstairs space in Harvard Square that was formerly Bombay Club. They are much less clear about marketing the menu, which has all kinds of the usual Indian restaurant dishes and a few new ones.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 01, 2011

Review: Tico

Sensational small plates and tequila done right
It turns out that the tequila-bar thing can be done right.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 31, 2011

Review: Geoffrey's Café

Sure-handed comfort food and great value
Geoffrey's has been around — in the Back Bay, South End, Roslindale, even Utah — but has succeeded for two decades with a sure-handed mix of comfort food and little cheffery, very good prices, and generous portions, especially on dessert.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 23, 2011

Review: The Abbey

Washington Square's new neighborhood jewel
We could spend a lot of time trying to decide what, exactly, the Abbey is, while plenty of people are crowding in simply to enjoy themselves.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 11, 2011

Review: La Casa de Pedro

Under-the-radar Venezualan flavor at the Arsenal
There are many ways to stay under this column's radar.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 29, 2011

Review: Nebo

It's safe to eat near the Garden again
This column used to have a rule about never eating within 1000 cubits of a college, government building, or sports stadium. It's all about transient foot traffic, the kind that doesn't keep a kitchen honest. Colleges have somewhat reduced their radius of bogosity, but the double-curse of the TD Garden and the O'Neill Federal Building has kept the North Station area pretty dismal for diners out.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 20, 2011

Review: Island Creek Oyster Bar

A simple, confident take on clam-shack cuisine
This is confusing, as about eight years ago I reviewed a fine seafood restaurant in this space, where chef Jeremy Sewall was doing terrific things with Island Creek oysters from Duxbury.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 24, 2011

Review: Dumpling Cafe

No matter how you eat them, these dumplings are winners
Come for the dumplings, stay for a full Taiwan-style menu. Actually, you might just come for the dumplings.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 08, 2011

Review: Strega Waterfront

Bada-bing: Nick Varano's new joint makes the gravy
At some point in his life, Nick Varano must have been told that the stereotypes of Italian-Americans could be a problem. And then at some other point — and I'm just guessing — he decided that the way to subvert these stereotypes was to exaggerate them and play them for laughs.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | March 24, 2011

Review: Bosphorus

A coming-out party for Turkish food in Boston
I've given up trying every crème brûlée or fried calamari in the Boston metro area; that would be akin to taking on the labors of Hercules.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | March 19, 2011

Review: Lolita Cocina and Tequila Bar

Shooting for sexy, and serving up solid Tex-Mex
Shooting for sexy, and serving up solid Tex-Mex

By: ROBERT NADEAU | March 18, 2011

Review: Deluxe Station Diner

The spread is homey, and the décor is steampunky — but the drinks are where it’s at
Despite breakfast all day, comfort food, the over-abundant choices of a deli menu, and the Jules Verne decorative contraptions of artist Mark Fisher — the most remarkable items at Deluxe Station Diner are things to drink.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | February 23, 2011

Review: 28 Degrees

More than just good, cold drinks
This handsome lounge/restaurant has been living more on its drinks than its food, but that turns out to be wrong.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | February 16, 2011

Review: Cognac Bistro

An outstanding French take on local goodness
This is the column's second visit to this former gas station, the previous loving restoration having been a b.good burger stand.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | February 02, 2011

Review: Bon Chon

Korean fried chicken, plus lots of hot and spicy
Bon Chon is a nine-year-old Korean fried-chicken franchise with a few dozen outlets in Korea and a few less than that in the United States.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | January 26, 2011

Istanbul'lu

Tasty Turkish cuisine that earns its fame
On one side of the scales, Nadeau's Law: "Never eat anything famous." On the other side, chef-owner Huseyin Akgun, who really ought to be famous for his cooking at the original Beacon Hill Istanbul Cafe, the bigger one in Allston, and some other spots in between.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | January 19, 2011

Review: Canary Square

Remaking a popular spot in Jamaica Plain
Where are the canaries? There are no canaries here. This gastropub is on Jamaica Plain's William E. Canary Square, marked with a sign few read in memory of Corporal Canary, who died in World War I.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | January 12, 2011

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