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In search of Kerouac

By JAMES PARKER  |  August 29, 2007

One of the first writers to reach a national audience through television, he never mastered the concept of small talk or self-promotion. Instead, even in media outlets he considered hostile or belittling, he talked nakedly about drugs and God and faith, trusting that he’d be taken seriously. Often he was drunk and sanctimonious at the same time, fascinating for his willingness to say inappropriate and self-damaging things. On John Wingate’s Nightbeat show, he told a national audience — getting its first look at the wild Beat figurehead — that he was ‘waiting for God to show his face’ and that he prayed to his brother Gerard, his father, Avalokiteshvara Buddha, and Our Mother in Heaven. He told Mike Wallace, then with the New York Post, ‘It’s a great burden to be alive. A heavy burden, a great big heavy burden. I wish I were safe in heaven, dead.’

070831_lowell_main2
QUEER SINCERITY: The Grotto, where Kerouac and his mother prayed.
4) Blotto in the Grotto
Spotted among Jack’s books at the Boott Gallery, a selection from his library: one copy of Praying the Psalms by Thomas Merton. Merton the Trappist monk, Franco-American like Jack and a jazz buff, too, taught as Jack was by the great Mark Van Doren at Columbia, with Jack’s same special love of Saint Therese of Lisieux and same keen mystical hunger for the East; Merton whose death by accidental electrocution in a Bangkok bathroom was like a parody of satori. The two men wanted to meet but never did, the business of getting an anchorite together with an alcoholic presenting, no doubt, certain logistical difficulties . . . Merton in his hut in Kentucky, Kerouac in his cups. Jack was a thwarted recluse himself, writing in Lonesome Traveler: “Final Plans: hermitage in the woods, quiet writing of old age, mellow hopes of Paradise (which comes to everybody anyway) . . . ” Merton was hardheaded and healthy, an athlete of contemplation. Jack’s mysticalness was sloppier, greasier, goofier: was it therefore less serious? Hell no. It was life-and-death to him, which he proved summarily by dying of it. In 1968 he wrote “A Poem Dedicated to Thomas Merton”: “Everybody is in/ the act/ from the point of view of Universality . . .”

And so with all this in mind and footsore now I head out, down Father Morrisette Boulevard, named for Armand “Spike” Morrisette, lifelong priest to Kerouac, who in the darkness of the St. Jean de Baptiste church calmed the distressed athletic/aesthetic teenager and urged him not to give up his dreams of writing. Past the gray muscular mass of the church itself, Jack’s “ponderous chartreuse cathedral of the slums,” spiritual bouncer to the poor houses around it, site of the memorial service in 1969 (his poor wrecked body brought up from Florida) where Spike in his eulogy called Jack “champion of the forlorn and the forgotten and the free,” the church now closed, doors barred and a rich incense stink of weed in the neighborhood air. And so at last to the Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes on Pawtucket Street behind the Franco-American School, built in 1911 in imitation of the famous grotto in Lourdes, France, where a peasant girl saw a vision of the Virgin Mary.

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Comments
In search of Kerouac
I was born and raised in Lowell. It's hard to imagine that On The Road is 50 years old. Kerouac has risen to be a cultural hero, but why? He drunk himself to death, lived his life hopelessly stoned, and his contribution to literature is a series of babbling nonsense. For the life of me, I can't see anything of lasting value that came out of the "beat" movement. Well, it DID add to Lowell's tourist income... The French-Canadian neighborhoods that Kerouac wrote aobut are gone, replaced by pavement and Cambodian neighborhoods. Where is his relevance today? Everyone who grew up in Lowell read his stuff, the one I enjoyed most was Doctor Sax, which described Lowell through his eyes. My interest in it was limited to descriptions of the city in days gone by, not his "streaming conciousness" nonsense. Why do we make this man a cultural icon, when he was basically a drunken tramp?
By Ian Donnis on 09/04/2007 at 2:12:35

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