Very American, this place, very Lowell: a counterfeit of old Europe, cheap-smelling and with a huge profane green dumpster only yards away but saturated still with its own queer sincerity. Here Jack and his mother made many devout and murmuring stops on walks to and from their home in Pawtucketville. Still in use — a man who looks like Tony Soprano is praying before the Second Station of the Cross as I arrive — but not in good shape at all, the fake grotto has been made mysterious by decrepitude. The great cross in particular is in a wild state of rot. Look up — white paint is flaking from the form of Christ. Stains and tear trails of oxidation. The Savior has rusty kneecaps! And I light a candle for my family here and elsewhere, pull from my pocket the beads that have been there all day and say a rosary for the soul of old Jack Kerouac the miserable, self-crucified in the USA and lifted in pieces to heaven from Lowell, Lowell, Lowell.
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