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ROBERT NADEAU

Latest Articles

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Eclano

Everything you’re looking for — nothing more
Why is one pretentious and expensive North End bistro better than another? Because it delivers on every course.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  June 14, 2006

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Stoli Bar and Restaurant

Plenty of ways to describe good food
In some ways the owners of Stoli are wonderfully naïve about American culture; in others, wonderfully sophisticated and knowing.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  June 07, 2006

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Conundrum

Relaxed fine dining, Cambridge-style  
The only puzzle at Conundrum is why they picked that name.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  May 31, 2006

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River Gods

An Irish pub that’s a real restaurant (with a punk sensibility)
I’ve gotten over the novelty of Irish bars with good food, but River Gods is a novelty in so many other directions, I think it could only happen in Cambridge.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  May 24, 2006

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Seiyo Sushi and Wine Shop

Sushi and salad and wine? Oh my!
You walk into Seiyo and you see a divider made of green Bordeaux-shaped wine bottles stuck into vertical pipes.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  May 17, 2006

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Caffe Italia

Three restaurants in one
There are actually two restaurants called Caffe Italia in East Boston: this one, behind the tunnel entrance, between Central and Maverick Squares; and Caffe Italia II, in Jeffries Point, on Bennington Street.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  May 10, 2006

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Douzo

A range of unusual choices   — most, uncommonly good
Douzo is supposed to mean something like “welcome” in Japanese, and a large crowd has already welcomed this large, shiny, sushi-plus restaurant to its location near Back Bay station.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  May 03, 2006

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Sorellina

A few dishes amaze; many don’t
Another week, another second or third restaurant by a famous chef (Jamie “Mistral” Mammano) focused on a single cuisine (Italian), with a more-junior chef (John Delpha) at the controls.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  April 26, 2006

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Lineage

Jeremy Sewall does his heritage proud
There are at least three kinds of lineage invoked here.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  April 19, 2006

OM

Pretty inside and out
The early word on OM from a Phoenix staffer was, “Pretty food. Prettier than I tend to like my food, actually.”
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  April 12, 2006

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Marco Cucina Romana

Marc Orfaly’s first-rate second restaurant
I am loving this new trend of top-dollar chefs opening second and third restaurants where they take a little bit off their fastball and have an under chef (here Matt Abdoo) on the premises doing the cooking.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  April 05, 2006

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New Taste of Asia

When it was good, it was very, very good . . .
This one is tricky. It is both the best and the worst Chinese restaurant I’ve reviewed in many years.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  April 05, 2006

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Dionysos

Cambridge’s big, fat Greek restaurant
Hidden on the second floor of a second-tier Cambridge hotel, Dionysos is a much more serious Greek restaurant than anyone would expect.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  March 27, 2006

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Zócalo Cocina Mexicana

Good? Sure. Authentic? Not so much.
The first thing that struck me on both visits was that the background music was Brazilian. It shifts to salsa and some Mexican pop, but Brazilian seems weird.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  March 15, 2006

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Café D Global Cuisine

Jamaica Plain’s Arbor downscales and warms up
Chef/owner Doug Organ decided that his excellent Arbor restaurant had priced and classed its way out of the neighborhood business he needed for weeknights, so he closed for a while to retool, re-price, and rename.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  March 08, 2006

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Victor’s Café

Like walking through the pages of Dostoevsky — in a good way
Victor’s is a small storefront done up with linen and elegant lacy napkins to suggest a kind of budget-gourmet experience.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  March 02, 2006

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Trattoria Toscana

A true taste of Italy in the Fenway
Maybe it takes an Albanian owner-chef to capture the tone and flavors of a trattoria in Tuscany.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  February 22, 2006

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Toro

Great tapas, long lines
Likeable, except for the name and the lines.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  February 15, 2006

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Ruth’s Chris Steak House

Taking beef and more to delicious new heights  
The attractions here are serious beef (especially the filet mignon), some New Orleans dishes and trimmings, polished execution, and the fact that, while all American steak houses partake of Disney-like mythology, this one is a little less over-the-top than our last major chain entrant, Smith & Wollensky.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  February 08, 2006

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Columbus Café

An altogether underrated South End treasure
This space used to house the Claremont Café, which outgrew its origins as a gourmet cafeteria to become a serious Mediterranean bistro with Peruvian menu incursions.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  January 25, 2006
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