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ROBERT NADEAU

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T.W. Food

Foodie heaven, but not for beginners
What if a chef dropped all commercial considerations and spent his or her days searching out the best local ingredients and producing short-menu masterpieces for a select clientele?

By: ROBERT NADEAU | December 12, 2007

Salvatore’s

A chain could do you good
The new waterfront restaurant scene is all glitz, with chains and chain relatives from Morton’s, Legal Sea Foods, and Wolfgang Puck.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | December 05, 2007

Kingston Station

On board, but not yet there
In many ways, Kingston Station is an inferior version of Gaslight, which I reviewed in this space this past week.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | November 28, 2007

Gaslight Brasserie du Coin

At the head of its class
This week I give four stars to Gaslight, where nothing costs more than $20.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | November 19, 2007

Coda

Good start to finish
I will be in one of those ice-cream parlors where the special is rye-whiskey-macadamia-nut-blue-cheese sorbet, and I will hear myself ordering . . . vanilla.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | November 14, 2007

Robyn’s Bar and Grill

Not your average ‘regular food’
With all the insanely expensive steakhouses going up, it’s good to see a quiet, steady revival of neighborhood pubs.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | November 07, 2007

Clink

Fine, eccentric cuisine that’s hardly prison food
Nearly 20 years and more than $100 million later, it has been rebuilt as a luxury hotel, with a restaurant cleverly named Clink.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | October 31, 2007

Wagamama

At the top of the food chain
I’m not supposed to like Wagamama, but I do. I’m not supposed to like chains, and Wagamama is a UK-based chain with 79 restaurants in 10 countries.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | October 24, 2007

Vlora

Covering all the bases with first-class Albanian and more
The “fork-tender grilled octopus” is true to its name and brings three tentacles almost big enough to carry off Captain Nemo of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea .

By: ROBERT NADEAU | October 17, 2007

Smoken’ Joe’s Authentic Southern Barbeque

It's time to turn up the heat
You wouldn’t have told Otis Redding to sing faster, so take a hint from him and slow down the cooking.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | October 10, 2007

Galway House

Where 1950s specialities live at 1980s prices
Getting tired of reading about $40 steaks, $60 steaks, $120 Japanese Wagyu beef steaks?

By: ROBERT NADEAU | October 03, 2007

The Beehive

Boho chic never tasted so good
This is the kind of restaurant that I’ve always loved and haven’t found in a long time.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | September 26, 2007

All Star Sandwich Bar

A star is born in Inman Square
The All Star Sandwich Bar has the greatest cornbread I’ve ever tasted.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | September 19, 2007

Zenna Noodle Bar

Regional stability in a bowl of soup
What’s three times better than a Vietnamese restaurant?

By: ROBERT NADEAU | September 12, 2007

Mooo . . . .

Yet another steak house with cash-cow dreams
This week’s victim: the Federalist, recently recast as Mooo.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | September 05, 2007

Potbellies Kitchen

With food this good, you won't mind the bulge
Two trends are currently sweeping through the food universe: lavishly upscale steak houses and modest bistros featuring local produce.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | August 29, 2007

Red Sky

At night, delight. But take warning.
The pitch for Red Sky is that it’s nicer, more upscale, and appeals to a slightly older crowd than the other nightspots around Faneuil Hall.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | August 22, 2007