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ROBERT NADEAU

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Franklin Southie

A popular chef's hangout branches out
The original Franklin Café in the South End won friends quickly with a unique combination of minimalist but inventive cuisine, comfort food like turkey meatloaf, an innovative wine-pricing scheme ($15 over wholesale), a terrific selection of draft beers, and the latest hours of any fine-dining possibility in town.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | July 01, 2009

Yoma Burmese Restaurant

After a long lapse, Boston gets another fine taste of a rare cuisine
Burmese food bears some resemblances to that of its neighboring countries, which has been emphasized during Boston's surprisingly long, if gapped, history with the cuisine.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 24, 2009

Espèria Grill & Rotisserie

Come for the gyros, stay for the pizza, lamb shanks, subs, etc . . .
The Center House of Pizza was a regular neighborhood pizza place for more than 20 years, and then, two years ago, suddenly changed its name to Espèria and put up a sign for rotisserie.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 17, 2009

Exotic Sushi and Tapas

A little bit of everything, from Europe to Japan
Exotic Sushi and Tapas doesn't have the most exotic sushi, but the combination of Japanese bar snacks with their European small-plate counterparts is an unusual angle on fusion that can be worked into a square meal.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 10, 2009

Tory Row

The Miracle of Science guys do it again
Matthew Curtis and Christopher A. Lutes, perfect-pitch masters of minimalism at Miracle of Science, Cambridge 1, Middlesex Lounge, and Audubon Circle, have finally opened a restaurant with a few flaws.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 04, 2009

Korean Garden Restaurant

Enjoy, we're here to help
Despite being open only six months, Korean Garden already has 22 Internet reviews.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 27, 2009

Review: Off the Boat Seafood

Large portions, now served in a larger space
To find Off the Boat Seafood, a South Italian take-out joint that just this winter added a 10-table dining room and a wine list, mainlanders will pass through the Callahan Tunnel and embark on an exercise so challenging it's not unlike finding the Northwest Passage.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 20, 2009

The Local

New Newton favorite attempts less, achieves more
How many times have I reviewed fried calamari just in the last decade? Maybe 70, 80 times, right?

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 13, 2009

Sensing

An old twist for a new French restaurant
I've enjoyed the revival of 1950s-style French bistros, but it's been quite a while since I could review a full-tilt example of 1980s French "nouvelle cuisine," which brought on bipolar reform.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 06, 2009

East Side Bar and Grille

What's old is new again — and still in style
Back in the day, a certain brand of bar-restaurant served Greater Boston neighborhoods well with plentiful food: fried seafood, steaks and chops, and usually some Italian-American dishes.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 29, 2009

Panza Ristorante

A good North End restaurant without a line? Enjoy it while it lasts.
Panza, which replaced Cibo in a small space just off the busiest blocks of Hanover Street, strikes a nice balance between red-sauce expectations, a bit of cheffery, and prices you can live with.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 22, 2009

Great Taste Bakery and Restaurant

A Chinatown eatery that lives up to its name
After a series of unimpressive Chinese restaurants (and one Korean place) had vacated the premises, this odd double-storefront reopened with a silly name — and actually delivers on it. All the food we had did taste great!

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 15, 2009