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ROBERT NADEAU

Latest Articles

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Lucky House Seafood

Off-the-menu delicacies well worth the hunt
For 150 years, Chinese restaurants in America have had different menus, and often different names, in English and Chinese.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  March 14, 2007

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51 Lincoln

Creative cuisine in Newton
I last reviewed Jeff Fournier when he was chef at the Metropolitan Club.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  March 07, 2007

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Tartufo at the Brickyard

Bringing the North End to North Cambridge — or trying to
The first Tartufo in Newton Centre was described as an attempt to reproduce the North End in the suburbs.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  February 28, 2007

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Sasso Restaurant and Bar

New ownership looks good on you
The way the present economy is playing out, a lot of small restaurants are now taking over larger and more expensive spaces.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  February 21, 2007

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Greek Isles

Something for the mortals, something for the gods
Greek Isles is owned and run by the former staff of Nikos, in Brookline Village, which lost its lease.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  February 14, 2007

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Phò Hóa

Good soup, fo' sho'
Since the original Pho Pasteur opened in 1992, Boston and Dorchester have become home to numerous small restaurants whose names begin with “pho,” the beef noodle soup of Hanoi that is now one of the most popular crossover dishes in Vietnamese-American restaurants.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  February 07, 2007

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Pava

Good food looks good on you
I still don’t get the thing about restaurants in clothing stores.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  January 31, 2007

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La Brace Italian Grille

Grilled to perfection
La Brace is a small, splendid North End restaurant featuring grilled foods with just enough red sauce to satisfy the neighborhood.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  January 24, 2007

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Mela

Traditional Indian food, on the rocks
When I heard that this space had been taken over by One World Cuisine, I knew it would end up handsomely decorated, with above-average food.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  January 17, 2007

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Goody Glover’s

The new North End? Irish and fusion and witches . . .   Oh my!
Reviewing an Irish pub in the North End?
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  January 10, 2007

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Copia Mediterranean Steakhouse

A fine grill with Greek and Italian extras
I thought that Mezé Estiatorio, the previous restaurant in this space, was so good it was going to start a trend of upscale Greek restaurants. But the dining public apparently did not support me, or got lost trying to get to Charlestown.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  January 03, 2007

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Rustic Kitchen

Long, complicated story. Good, accessible food
Rustic Kitchen is actually the third restaurant of its name in Boston (with another in Hingham).
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  December 27, 2006

2006 restaurant awards

The best of this year’s dining
Well, here we are in our imaginary tuxedos, passing out imaginary awards for fine-dining experiences — culinary performances which are sometimes hard to repeat and usually go undocumented.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  December 20, 2006

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Z Square Restaurant + Bar

  Nostalgia tastes good
Remember when Harvard Square had all-night cafeterias filled with procrastinating students and desperate local bohemians?
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  December 13, 2006

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Anise

An ‘A’ for effort, but not a perfect sum
Be careful what you wish for. I have been asking Chinese restaurants to upscale their service, shorten their menus, make clear what the chef’s specialties really are, and offer the more-authentic dishes on the English-language menu.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  December 05, 2006

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Petit Robert Bistro

Meet the new Robert, same as the old Robert
This is Petit Robert Bistro #2, or II, or deux. Or, since this space, formerly Rouge, is smaller than the original Petit Robert, maybe it’s Plus Petit Robert.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  November 29, 2006

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Zoe’s Gourmet Chinese Cuisine (Brookline)

Twice isn’t always as nice
There were extreme reactions to the news that Zoe’s, which has another location in Somerville, was taking over Shalom Beijing (formerly Shalom Hunan).
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  November 21, 2006

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40 years of Boston (Phoenix) food

A long-time writer reflects on our city’s culinary history
Food and cultural historian Laura Shapiro likes to point out a certain week in 1963 when Julia Child first appeared on WGBH and Betty Friedan published The Feminine Mystique .
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  November 15, 2006

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Bin 26 Enoteca

Whine and whimsy in Beacon Hill
The little space that used to be Torch has been taken over by Babak Bina and Azita Bina-Seibel of Lala Rokh.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  November 14, 2006

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Bouchée

Standardized French fare, done well
Bouchée does so many things well that even some of its drawbacks may be successful.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  November 08, 2006
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