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Middle of Nowhere Diner

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  January 17, 2006

My dining companion rolled up his sleeves and took on the yeoman task of checking out the Parmigiana platter ($11.95), the most ambitious item on the pasta page. Out came what looked like a family platter of spaghetti, with meatballs and peppers, plus a cutlet of veal, chicken, and eggplant. The meatballs were a little on the dense side for my taste, but the tomato sauce was exquisite, just thick enough and somehow magnetically attracting my sampling fork. Gary’s a big guy with a healthy appetite, but when he was through, what was left could be spread around to look like no one had touched the plate.

If you’re stingy as well as hungry, you should know about the “Two for Tuesday” dinner specials that start at 3:30 pm. You get two soups, two salads, and two main dishes for $12.99. There are always eight or so choices from the main menu, plus a special or two such as American chop suey.

As for desserts, Neil does his own puddings, tapioca, and some of the pies, such as pumpkin, apple, and apple crisp — including a lemon meringue that I hear is worth the detour. Trouble is, every time I eat here, I end up too stuffed to indulge. Next time maybe I’ll ask for a bigger doggie bag.

Middle of Nowhere Diner | 222 noosenbeck hill road [route 3], exeter, RI |
Open daily, 5 am-8:30 pm | No credit cards | BYOB | Sidewalk-level access |
401.397.8855

Bill Rodriguez can be reached at bill@billrod.com.

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