Entering the club at 91 South

By BRIAN DUFF  |  March 13, 2013

Another entrée's duck breast, crusted with herbs, might have cooked a touch too long. But it had great flavor, and sat on a creamy risotto that had just the right barely-firm texture. The same could be said for the Creole rice in the shrimp étouffée. The rice was drenched in a Cajun sauce marked by a simple, subtle heat, and an undertone of vegetal flavors. It was spotted with plenty of fat, sweet little shrimp.

Given the already-almost played out craze for pop-up this and underground that, it is refreshing to visit this dignified and established private club, in modest, unpretentious Gorham. We have lost the art of restrained sharing in the privacy of a small group with a meaningful connection. These days we are either alone with our self-disgust, or we are projecting ourselves to the world with Instagram pics of our meals at secret spots. Privacy itself is a novel idea now that sociality and intimacy require our inner selves to be constantly on display. 91 South will let you inside, but not quite so easily as your Facebook friends. It's gonna cost a buck.

91 SOUTH | 91 South St, Gorham | Thurs-Sat 5:30-9 pm | Visa/MC/Amex | 207.839.2495

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