That's why we won't see fried pollock at Fat Boy anytime soon — manager Jamie Burton Alexander says it wouldn't be as profitable. Customers couldn't stomach the change. A lobsterman recently told me he only eats baked, stuffed haddock, saying grayer pollock versus haddock is like the difference between dark and white chicken meat. Yet blind tests reveal people can hardly taste the difference when cooked. We gravitate toward the familiar, even when that fish is unavailable locally or in short supply.

GMRI urges us to think of fish as more seasonal — like summer corn or tomatoes or even Maine sea scallops come winter — and binge when the product's fresh and plentiful. Ask where the fish comes from. Your coastal restaurant's mahi mahi or yellowfin tuna definitely wasn't harvested here. GMRI also has a "Gulf of Maine Responsibly Harvested" seal to make those trips to the fish counter a tad less perplexing. ^

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  Topics: Food Features , haddock, Cod, Dogfish
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