Diners might wish the low-overhead would lend itself to a few more affordable bottles on the wine list, but by the glass there is plenty to like at a reasonable price. In the evening, with this sort of menu, the Artemisia décor appears a bit less pleasantly eclectic and a bit more early-1990s precious. All the hanging plants and knick-knacks strike you differently, as does the hum of the wall-mounted air conditioner.

Despite the male chef, named Guy no less, Artemisia still has a feminine vibe that seems right for a place named after the goddess of fertility, the queen who defied Greece, and the painter of Judith beheading her people’s tormenter. Too much masculine posturing regarding the appealing new dinner would have been out of place. Instead the new chef seems to have quietly found just the right spot.  ^

$$ ARTEMISIA CAFÉ for dinner | 61 Pleasant St, Portland | 207.761.0135

< prev  1  |  2  | 
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BRIAN DUFF
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   A LITTLE WHINE  |  September 05, 2014
    The lessons of Lolita are that something simpler and less challenging can be lovely, and that some cheap wine could really loosen things up.
  •   TACOS ON THE TOWN  |  August 31, 2014
    While there’s no class mobility in this town, we do have taco mobility—even taco-class mobility.
  •   COPING WITH ADULTHOOD  |  August 07, 2014
    The neighborhood’s newish Central Provisions is grown up. But it also embodies our ambivalence about adulthood, and our persistent hope that a few more drinks will help us cope with it.
  •   PATHS TO GREATNESS  |  July 31, 2014
    India, like the American university, is mostly in the news these days for its bloated and ineffective administration and an epidemic of underprosecuted sexual assault. But let’s not give up on either—India or college—as a source of wisdom and repository of culture.
  •   THE QUAY TO GOOD LIVING  |  July 11, 2014
    Though they offer an appealing moral clarity, in practice zero tolerance policies have ruined any number of urban schools, fragile marriages, and card-marred soccer games. Zero tolerance almost ruined Portland a few years back, too.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF