Diners might wish the low-overhead would lend itself to a few more affordable bottles on the wine list, but by the glass there is plenty to like at a reasonable price. In the evening, with this sort of menu, the Artemisia décor appears a bit less pleasantly eclectic and a bit more early-1990s precious. All the hanging plants and knick-knacks strike you differently, as does the hum of the wall-mounted air conditioner.

Despite the male chef, named Guy no less, Artemisia still has a feminine vibe that seems right for a place named after the goddess of fertility, the queen who defied Greece, and the painter of Judith beheading her people’s tormenter. Too much masculine posturing regarding the appealing new dinner would have been out of place. Instead the new chef seems to have quietly found just the right spot.  ^

$$ ARTEMISIA CAFÉ for dinner | 61 Pleasant St, Portland | 207.761.0135

< prev  1  |  2  | 
| More

Most Popular
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   COPING WITH ADULTHOOD  |  August 07, 2014
    The neighborhood’s newish Central Provisions is grown up. But it also embodies our ambivalence about adulthood, and our persistent hope that a few more drinks will help us cope with it.
  •   PATHS TO GREATNESS  |  July 31, 2014
    India, like the American university, is mostly in the news these days for its bloated and ineffective administration and an epidemic of underprosecuted sexual assault. But let’s not give up on either—India or college—as a source of wisdom and repository of culture.
  •   THE QUAY TO GOOD LIVING  |  July 11, 2014
    Though they offer an appealing moral clarity, in practice zero tolerance policies have ruined any number of urban schools, fragile marriages, and card-marred soccer games. Zero tolerance almost ruined Portland a few years back, too.
  •   BITING INTO THE FANTASY  |  July 10, 2014
    Is it a sign of the shallowness of our national culture that we have spent half a decade excited by the idea of food served from trucks? Sure. But is it a symptom of some deeper condition? I suspect so. This summer offers a chance to investigate thanks to the arrival of a critical mass of food trucks around Portland, along with the film Chef, about a restaurant chef who starts a food truck.  
  •   A RAIL-CAR PALACE IN BIDDEFORD  |  June 11, 2014
    The barrel roofed train-car looks incredibly good given it’s nearly a century old.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF