The best Tex-Mex-Iterranean in town
By JEREMY SAUER | July 19, 2006
With a name like the Omelettry, you’d expect an homage to the egg, not the huevo . But the Omelettry Café, in Brookline Village, is splattered with enough culinary influences to make even Jackson Pollock blush. From playful Tex (“Austin Thriller”) to authentic Mex (chicken molé) and everything in between (grilled Oriental chicken, “The Mediterranean” sandwich, Hollywood smoothies), the food selection is both confusing and delicious. Tucked away in a tiny, muraled storefront on Washington Street, the Omelettry looks like a college hangout. And for the most part, the food fits that bill: large portions that are easy on both the stomach and the wallet. The egg-heavy breakfast menu is served daily until 3 pm; go for the Tex-Mex favorites instead. Try the enchilada Suiza’s ($8.95), filled with shredded spiced chicken, baked with ranchero sauce, and flanked by refried beans and Spanish rice. The “build your own” burritos ($6.25) —plump and crammed with a seemingly endless variety of meats and toppings to choose from — are also great. But the real stars here are the “Kings of Quesadillas.” On offer are adobo chicken with caramelized onions ($7.95), carne guisada ($8.95) with garlicky sauce, or chorizo with black beans and sweet corn ($7.95). Top it off with pico de gallo, guacamole, and a spoonful of house-made hot sauce, and you’ll see why this dish has earned its regal name.
The menu here could use a bit more focus (and while we’re at it, the dining room could use a stronger air conditioner). Still, the Omelettry Café is off to a promising start. With its globetrotting menu and welcoming wait staff, it’s primed to feed Brookline Village’s students and workers, morning, noon, and night.
The Omelettry Café, 284 Washington Street, Brookline | Sun - Wed, 7 am - 6 pm; Thur - Sat, 7 am to 10 pm | 617.739.5500.
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