Nataing |
Rarely do restaurant-goers have the option of sampling both Cornish game hen with a tarragon-mustard wine sauce and soy-bathed loc lac beef chunks under the same roof. But at the Elephant Walk, Longteine de Monteiro’s dual-faced Cambodian/French menu leaps back and forth between Western Europe and Asia, turning out chilled bowls of avocado-citrus soup just as easily as it does vats of traditional Phnom Penh noodle broth.
Many who frequent the Elephant Walk, however, advise sticking to the Cambodian dishes to capitalize on the chefs’ inherent strengths. Portions here being fairly hearty, it’s a good idea to plan on sharing and sampling from whatever lands on your table — notably, the Thai curry-like appetizer called nataing. This sweet, rosy-rust-colored mixture of ground pork, garlic, chilies, shallots, and peanuts is steeped in coconut milk with rustic slabs of crispy jasmine rice alongside for dipping. Keep a spoon on-hand, though: even with a few friends dipping in, the bowl is deep and the coconut milk is rich. Besides, you’ll need to make it to the entrée course.
Available for $8.50 at the Elephant Walk, 900 Beacon Street, Boston and 2067 Mass Ave, Cambridge |617.247.1500 and 617.492.6900
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