Don’t be fooled by the sparse décor of Madina Market’s Kitchen; the food is authentic Pakistani cuisine: rich, abundant, and generous. The Allston restaurant is reputedly the only place in Boston where you can find the real flavors of Pakistan; as a result, natives flock from neighboring states for a taste of home. They order haleem ($7.95), a paste-like blend of mutton and lentils stewed until the flavors blend seamlessly, and Neehari ($7.95), a spicy beef stew and another source of national pride.
Some of the items on the long, blackboard-scribbled menu might sound similar to the fare at your favorite Indian place, such as tikka masala ($9.95), lamb biryani ($9.95), and vegetable curries like the creamy spinach aloo palak ($7.25). But subtle differences distinguish Pakistani spice mixes from their Indian equivalents. You also won’t find any beef dishes in an Indian eatery, in deference to Hindu India’s sacred cows; but beef-loving Pakistanis have perfected the kebab, originally an Arabic staple. Here, seekh kebab ($3.95) is most popular: skewered, juicy, and delicately seasoned meat cooked in the tandoor, a clay oven that infuses a unique, smoky flavor.
Start your meal with onion pakoras ($2.75) or samosas ($2.75), quick and satisfying fried treats. Curries are served with fragrant rice and naan, the bread served warm at every meal. The buffet option ($5.99) is a steal: it comes with four curries, nan, rice, anda piece of tandoori chicken. All dishes are moderately spicy, but you can ask for more or less heat.
By the end of your meal, you’ll discover that “bare bones” applies not only to the restaurant’s décor, but also to the remnants of tandoori chicken on your Styrofoam plate.
Madina Market’s Kitchen, located at 72–74 Brighton Avenue, Allston | Open Mon - Fri, 11:30 am - 2:30 pm and 5 - 10 pm; Sat and Sun, noon - 2:30 pm, and 5 - 10 pm | 617.787.4400.
