The wine list at Mezé was basically Californian and Italian, with a nice group of modern Greek wines. The new owners, who have a similar list at Prezza, simply substituted Spanish wines for the Greek ones. It’s a good list, although most of the action starts at $30 and up. I was able to snag a fine Barbera D’Asti, Vobis Tua 2004 ($28). Regular readers have noted my problems with Italian reds of the super-hot 2003 season. This 2004 was back to form; it was a dark and fruity wine with plenty of acidity but not so much tannin, fitting a variety of foods and sauces.
Decaf ($3) and tea ($4) are expensive but good, and the latter is correctly served loose-leaf in a pot. Espresso ($4) was initially too short and had a burned flavor — had it been held too long? The replacement was fine.
There’s major improvement over the previous menu’s desserts. Maple-walnut triangles ($8) are a spin on baklava and better than any of the old Greek desserts. Pumpkin crème brûlée ($9) is a very valid twist, more pumpkin than cream, but not spiced silly. Warm chocolate cake ($9) is always welcome; it’s a cliché dessert that gets us at least to the next chocolate bar.
Service at Copia was very good on a quiet weeknight. The atmosphere hasn’t taken shape, but the modern room with limestone and blond-wood accents is a wonderful setting, and two walls of windows have a thrilling view of the Zakim Bridge. Oh, I know, it’s supposed to be the Leonard P. Zakim Bunker Hill Bridge. But if this pricy Mediterranean steakhouse is going to fly in Charlestown, that bridge better be a symbol of regional unity for diners from all over metro Boston.
Copia Mediterranean Steakhouse| 100 City Square, Charlestown | Open Mon–Thurs, 11:30 am–2:30 pm and 5–10 pm; on Fri, 11:30 am–2:30 pm and 5–11 pm; on Sat, 5–11 pm; and on Sun, 4–9 pm | AE, DC, MC, VI | Full bar | Valet parking $13 | Street-level access | 617.242.6742
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Robert Nadeau: RobtNadeau@aol.com
