Entrées were less innovative, but kept up the local-food theme. My favorite was the pan-roasted skate wing ($24) — a truly local fish — served on the cartilage and crisped on top. Underneath was a square of scalloped potatoes and cheese, and more of the pea-tendril salad. I also liked the vegan option: “crispy” potato gnocchi with fava beans and fava leaves ($17). Here, they’re fried on one side, like Peking Ravioli, making them appropriately crunchy. The beans are bright green gems, even more flavorful than the first peas of the season. And while fava leaves are a novelty, their rougher texture makes them a less terrific pre-asparagus spring green than pea tendrils. For some delicious comfort food, try the macaroni and cheese ($17), which is elevated by bits of confit duck that work their way into the shells and a creamy cheese sauce. Don’t worry, vegetarians: the kitchen can omit the duck.
The Green Street clam bake ($25) is a more conventional entrée, but well done, with half a lobster in the shell, mussels, cherrystone clams, fingerling-potato slices, and wisps of fennel in a surprisingly sweet, buttery broth. Seared Long Island duck breast ($21) is sliced and cooked medium to order, with a meaty “au jus” sauce and sautéed onions and potatoes.
The wine list doesn’t heavily feature New England wines (the best of which would stretch to Long Island right now), but the selection is well-suited for this type of food. And the mixology, supervised by owner Dylan Black, is very good. Decaf coffee ($2.38) was superb, and tea ($3.33) is served loose-leaf in china pots, as it should be.
Dessert is the one course that is something of a letdown, except for the brownie sundae ($7). This typical dating-bar mess was elevated by homemade banana ice cream, candied-nuts and brickle mix-ins, and a half-cooked brownie that melted appealingly on the palate. Butterscotch pudding ($7) is a New England classic, but I found this one thin and chalky, though I kept eating away. Pineapple upside-down cake ($6) had nice fruit, but a nondescript and soft underlying cake. The menu lists cider sorbet ($6), but the one in stock was raspberry; three scoops are served with a molasses cookie. It’s good but nothing special.
The atmosphere at an early dinner was dark and minimalist, but pleasant and respectable. A few West African barber signs are the last remnant of the Caribbean-dive days. Most of the framed art is now historic photos of Cambridge, especially of Green Street, such as one would find on a bistro wall. I couldn’t quite place the folk-country-techno background music, but I enjoyed it. Later in the evening, there are live jazz and disco nights.
Green Street Grill | 280 Green Street, Cambridge | Open Sun–Wed, 5:30–10:30 pm; and Thurs–Sat, 5:30 –11:30 pm | AE, MC, VI | Full bar | No valet parking; | Inexpensive city garage One block away | Sidewalk-level access to some tables | 617.876.1655
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Robert Nadeau: RobtNadeau@aol.com
