Zenna Noodle Bar

Regional stability in a bowl of soup
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  September 12, 2007
3.0 3.0 Stars
insideCRW_8627
MANGO STICKY RICE DESSERT: Traditional Thai and Vietnamese food with a twist.

Zenna Noodle Bar | 1374 Beacon Street, Brookline | Open Mon–Thurs, 11 am–10:30 pm; Fri & Sat, 11 am–11 pm; and Sun, 3–10 pm | AE, DC, DI, MC, VI | Beer and wine | No valet parking | Sidewalk-level access | 617.566.0566

What’s three times better than a Vietnamese restaurant? A really pretty one, such as Zenna Noodle Bar, that serves some Thai dishes and adds fresh, seasonal vegetables to the classics without distorting them. Thus the “Zenna noodle soup” ($7.25) here is Vietnamese pho, but with the wonderful additions of fresh carrot slices, snow peas, shreds of yellow summer squash, and even bits of broccoli.

The room in which this “Vietnamese fusion” cuisine is served is modern and handsome, with one long ochre wall, one purple-maroon, and niches for parts of the menu that have been blown up to serve as wall art. Little tables give a cozy feeling to the large space, which is further enlivened by a Vietnamese pop love of mambo and tango.

The menu proper at Zenna is divided arbitrarily into earth, air, fire, and water. Well, earth-as-salads and water-as-soup aren’t so arbitrary, I guess. But fire for stir-fries is a small stretch, and air for noodles is a full lotus position into which my brain cannot bend.

Fortunately, the mouth has no such conceptual problems. Fresh summer rolls ($6.25/tofu; $6.95/chicken and shrimp) are wonderful, uncooked spring rolls with translucent rice-paper fillings, beautifully rolled and cut like sushi, with a tasty peanut dip. Noodles and shredded vegetables dominate the flavor, though shrimp and chicken tastes also come through.

Banh xeo ($6.95/vegetables; $7.95/shrimp and chicken), the classic Vietnamese omelet-crêpe, is small but richly flavorful, served with lots of handsome salad and a carrot that has been cut, Thai style, into a flower. Satay skewers ($6.95) are not as strongly marinated as they might have been in a Thai restaurant, but the beef is close. The two sauces, peanut and fish sauce/vinegar nuoc cham, are sure to pique one’s interest.

Butterfly shrimp ($8.95) — now there’s one for the air menu — are actually tempura, with lots of vegetables, including the purple Okinawan sweet potatoes, as well as more familiar carrots, eggplant, green beans, and onions. It’s served with . . . tomato ketchup. But tomato ketchup itself is a fusion of a Malay soy sauce with Euro-American tomatoes, so it couldn’t be more appropriate, and it actually complemented fried veggies and shrimp better than I thought it would.

Back to the Zenna noodle soup, though. Pho has to be rated first on the broth, and Zenna’s is lighter in color but meatier (and less sweet or spicy) in flavor than most. It still has the hint of anise, which you can amplify by adding Asian basil leaves, which are served on the side, along with bean sprouts and a piece of fresh lime. Sliced beef and meatballs are simpler fillings than you’d find in pho dac biet in a full-tilt Vietnamese restaurant, but the increased variety of vegetables more than makes up for that, and the cilantro, scallions, sliced onion, and lemongrass flavors are nicely balanced. Pho is a rice-noodle soup, which I have learned to eat with an Asian spoon in one hand and chopsticks (very good for picking up noodles) in the other. But Zenna has only chopsticks, not spoons; instead, it sets typical European (and Thai) flatware. The side sauces are a deadly chili paste and hoisin, both traditional, neither of which I use on decent pho.

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