The Reuben ($8.95) can be made with the classic corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing grilled on dark rye. The only slight flaw being not enough sauerkraut per corned beef. But if you deviate with pastrami and light rye, it’s back in balance. And for habañero thrill seekers, the “Atomic Meatloaf Meltdown” ($8.75) is a legitimate three-bomber, wonderfully balanced by the meaty flavor, the slight stodginess of the meatloaf, the red-onion jam, and even the sourdough bread, despite a healthy dose of Schlesinger’s own Inner Beauty hot sauce.
Some sandwiches are only available as daily specials, so pencil in a Thursday visit for the Eastern North Carolina Style BBQ pork ($6.50) — the pulled pork that made the East Coast Grill famous — on an “average white bun.”
All Star can be less than stellar in its halfhearted attempts to go meatless. The “veggie Cuban” ($8.95), for instance, is a pressed bun of grilled vegetables (eggplant dominant) and cheese — a travesty of a sandwich that normally depends on three kinds of pork. The grilled falafel burger ($7) works as a veggie burger if you use enough ketchup. But it’s nothing close to falafel, which is a world-class pita sandwich (I know, it could be mistaken for a — hiss-boo — wrap) if you put spices in the mix, fry it crisp, and douse it with tahini sauce (available here on request). In fact, the Israeli version adds a Yemenite hot sauce, zhoug, that would be right at home in Schlesinger’s wheelhouse.
Looking to wash down your sandwich with a beer? A short list of draft microbrews is available. I had a Berkshire Brewing Company Steel Rail pale ale ($4) that was remarkably hoppy but otherwise not fabulous. It’s since been replaced with another on tap. For non-drinkers, lemonade ($2.25) is the real deal and very refreshing, as was an Arnold Palmer ($2) — lemonade mixed with iced tea.
If you can even think about dessert at this point, All Star Sandwich Bar has a jar of free Oreos on the counter, as well as some plated offerings. On three visits, I didn’t see anyone hungry enough to eat either after one of these sandwiches. In fact, I had to force tablemates to order desserts, which are all large, cheap, and sugary. The seven-layer bars ($2.25) are the winner, not just sweet but Southern sweet, with coconut and a drop of chocolate. The fudge brownies ($2.25) are huge but cakey, and not for real chocolate lovers. Chocolate-chip cookies ($1.25 each) are also large, but again undistinguished. Christina’s Homemade Ice Cream is a few doors away, though, and perhaps a better option since the walk would refresh the appetite.
There’s too little counter space and too many small tables for the traditional gruff-waitress diner service. And the food is too good and too fairly priced to require or support any fooling around. So service is efficient and effective without role-playing, and the atmosphere is really just crowded. Some chefs do a downscale restaurant and seem lost or condescending. Thankfully, Chris Schlesinger is right at home at the All Star Sandwich Bar.
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Robert Nadeau: RobtNadeau@aol.com
