Service on an uncrowded weeknight was excellent, our server pert and knowledgeable about the food and wines. Having only been open for a month and a few days, Vlora hasn’t yet picked up a particular audience. But the vast selection of small plates and side dishes should be enough to lure a bar-bites crowd underground. Unfortunately, that probably means more hip-hop than sax solos are in store for the future. Until the crowds of youth come, though, you can enjoy a darn good multi-generational dinner of steak, chicken, and seafood. Plus, the ethnic zest and novelty of dishes such as ostrich steak ($32.95) should attract a fair share of foodies. That said, Vlora is a big restaurant that’s trying to please several kinds of diners. It still needs some adjustments, though most of the errors I experienced can be fixed in an hour, while fork-tender octopus can’t be learned out of a book.
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Robert Nadeau: RobtNadeau@aol.com