Seared scallops ($11/appetizer; $23/entrée) are of the sea variety, though ours were strongly flavored, as if they were nearly past their peak. They were served with lemon risotto, which was creamy and well made, with a nice flavor of lemon peel and not too much crunch. Steak frites ($26) — well, I was spoiled at Gaslight. The version here is a small sirloin, which might have been better had it come to the table medium-rare, as ordered. The fries, made with rosemary and a lot of sea salt, were good; to be great, more potato flavor is required.
Organic chicken ($21) is cooked under a brick, and, for a boneless breast, this was an excellent treatment. It was perhaps the best of our entrées. The skin was burned but the meat was tender and juicy, with as much flavor as chicken breast can have. The sides of fingerling potatoes, cress, and tomatoes were all fine. Pumpkin “tortoloni” ($17) — basically, large tortellini — was right up there. Vegans take note: they will make this without the pancetta, which is Italian bacon. Either way, these are big and made with fresh pasta, a pumpkin filling not too sweet, and provocative bits of apple and cheese.
The wine list follows the new trend of (very confusing) four-size pricing. A glass of 2006 Chinon Rosé, from Hardouin ($7/glass; $12/half carafe; $24/carafe; $30/bottle), was crisp and dry, flavored more like red than white wine, but it went well with all kinds of food. It would probably have more aroma in a real wine glass rather than the bistro-style tumbler in which it’s served. Coke ($2) was unusually thin; I don’t think the bar had properly set up the soda machine. And decaf ($3) with dessert was good but not great.
All the desserts could use a little work, though cookies and milk ($6) was the best of the lot. The dish comes with four hot, half-baked chocolate-chip cookies and a tall glass of milk. You have the absinthe, I’ll have the cookies: perfect second date! Bread pudding ($7) is not much by itself, more like an English pudding, but the accompanying gravy boat of chocolate sauce can save it. Warm chocolate cake ($7) is a little rubbery, but vanilla-bean ice cream helps. The seasonal sorbets ($6) our night, served in a martini glass, were pear (which is indeed seasonal, but was indistinct in flavor) and raspberry (which is only sort of seasonal, but always makes a good sorbet).
The bar, as far as I could see beyond the throngs of people standing around, had cream-colored walls. The two dining rooms, one of which is sometimes closed or used for private functions, are nicer but not really interesting. Service despite the din was solid, with only one dropped order, which was quickly provided.
I wouldn’t plan a dinner party at Kingston Station, unless everyone in your party is either deaf or pretty good with American Sign Language. But if you’re starting or ending an evening of drinking and can’t make the 300 yards to Chinatown, you can eat here quite well.
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Robert Nadeau: RobtNadeau@aol.com
