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Ricardo’s Ristorante

Sincerely old-school
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  January 2, 2008
2.5 2.5 Stars

The wine list isn’t fancy, and I thought it somewhat pricey, although the Piccini Chianti Classico ($8/glass; $30/bottle) is still a decent value. Coffee, decaf (both $2.50), and cappuccino ($5) are all up to neighborhood standards, and some of the desserts are rather better. The cannoli ($5) were fresh both of shell and ricotta filling, and uncluttered, like the marinara. The gelato ($6) — we chose pistachio — was the real deal. I didn’t think much of the chocolate mousse ($5.50), and the tiramisu ($6) was likewise edible but undistinguished.

Service was pleasant and accurate on two visits. If you google Ricardo’s, as many diners-out do these days, you’ll notice a very bipolar distribution of opinion. Some bloggers say it’s a personal favorite or a hidden gem, with food like Mama used to make. Others report major disappointment. My guess would be that two factors are at work. Because the menu is too long, foodies are coming in and ordering their favorite dishes, which are not well made here, but attractively priced. The happier people have more conservative tastes. The other issue is that Ricardo’s is not widely advertised and it’s relatively easy to walk in and get a table. Not only does this mean that some people are being turned away at the very gourmet restaurant, Mare, across the street and coming here expecting a very different class of seafood risotto; but also that Ricardo’s staff may not adjust well to peak-demand periods, such as summer festas. Taken for what it is, at un-crowded times, Ricardo’s provides sincere and satisfying versions of old-school Italian restaurant food at reasonable prices.

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Robert Nadeau: RobtNadeau@aol.com

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ARTICLES BY ROBERT NADEAU
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