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Wrap it up

By BRIAN DUFF  |  January 30, 2008

In a recession, both Fat Baxter’s and North Star will need to worry about the existing working-class alternatives nearby. I ordered a “real Italian” at Colucci’s and Amato’s to investigate. The Colucci sandwich — which is spicy, meaty, and peppery with just the right splash of oil and a refreshing crunch of pepper — gives the newer places more to worry about. It was hard to notice the sparse, sweet ham in the oil-soaked soft Italian roll of Amato’s milder version. But North Star and Fat Baxter would be wise to attend to what these older spots do well: offer fat sandwiches at low prices. In recent years America came to like its sandwiches the way we like our starlets and models: flat and hot. When we found them done well (like at Duckfat) we were willing to pay for it. This year things could be very different.

Brian Duff can be reached at bduff@une.edu.

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