Bacaro

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  January 15, 2009

Still carried along by the urge to sample small portions, we decided to all share a pasta and main dish. We ordered the linguine "Nero" with octopus and squid ($21). The pasta was replaced unannounced with squid-ink spaghetti, but was nicely al dente, and the aglio olio preparation was restrained in its red-pepper-flake heat. There were wood-grilled possibilities, from spareribs to veal tenderloins, but we went for seafood. The thick, palm-sized piece of line-caught Block Island swordfish ($30) was roasted Ligurian-style, the menu informed us, which involved San Marzano tomatoes and lots of capers and olives. We all were pleased.

Having not practiced restraint so far, we weren't about to do so with the dolce course. The desserts are made-to-order, and some of them are ingenious.

Ken wasn't fascinated enough by the red wine ice cream with fresh black pepper ($11), so he went straight to the "Scotsman" ($18), vanilla ice cream with a shot of 15-year-old Macallan Scotch to dribble on it or down your chin. Johnnie chose the remarkably light eggnog panna cotta ($11), and Donna had the dense flourless chocolate espresso torte with vanilla ice cream ($13).

I had a little of everything. Bacaro is the kind of place that makes you grin and think of doing that.

Bill Rodriguez can be reached at bill@billrod.com.

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