Review: Walter's

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  February 11, 2009

Five pastas and risotto are listed with twice that number of main dishes — half seafood, half meat — under "Secondi." We sometimes share a pasta as a second course before having individual third courses, but we each ordered separately this time. Johnette considered the salmon steak ($25), which was poached with a shrimp and tomato cream sauce, and served over risotto.

But instead she chose the pesce al'Ebraisca ($22), since Potenza is a prominent promoter of Italian Jewish cuisine. Lightly egg-battered and fried, the haddock had spinach above and below, all resting in a lemony pool of white wine and garlic, slightly sweetened with honey. It was well appreciated.

There are several dishes that are baked in terracotta, another Potenza specialty. I had the fiaccheraia ($19), bowtie pasta with pieces of chicken and pancetta in a red sauce, patches of melted pecorino cheese on top. It was all quite delicious. A similar version is tossed with a ragu of wild boar.

For dessert, our eyes lit up seeing fig gelato listed. But they were out, so we went with old favorites. Her chocolate torte ($8) was accompanied by sliced strawberries that were lightly sweetened, to lessen their off-season acidity.

My amareno cherries on gelato ($7) was almost a no-show, because they were out of vanilla. Good news: chocolate tastes good under those syrupy, marinated cherries. Bad news: this gelato was coarse, crystalline; Big deal. After that fine meal, I'd have settled for a slushie.

Bill Rodriguez can be reached atbill@billrod.com.

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Foods,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BILL RODRIGUEZ
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   GENDER BENDERS  |  September 17, 2014
    Gender confusion has probably been around for as long as gender conflicts.
  •   SIMONE'S  |  September 17, 2014
    In the Rhode Island tradition of giving directions like “it’s where the coffee milk factory used to be,” Simone’s is located where Not Your Average Bar & Grille and the ice cream shop Supreme Dairy used to be.
  •   FALL ARTS PREVIEW | THEATER: STORIES ACHING TO BE TOLD  |  September 10, 2014
    From 'Eleemosynary' to 'Hype Hero.'
  •   THE WAR WITHIN  |  September 10, 2014
    A compelling combination of intelligent text and thoroughly inhabited performance.
  •   A MOST MISERABLE MAN  |  September 10, 2014
    There is a good reason that Anton Chekhov’s Ivanov isn’t staged often.

 See all articles by: BILL RODRIGUEZ