A plate of three small burgers was perfectly fine for snacks. The overwhelming impression was sweetness, thanks to the sautéed onions, the slice of pineapple under the bun, and the ketchup on the side. Again the beef was very good and had a crunchy flame-broiled exterior. Ask for mustard — what they give you is a good one.
The crab and avocado spread should probably be reconsidered. There is hardly enough crab on top to make an impression. What’s underneath is basically cream cheese in a semi-hollowed and semi-brown half avocado, which is hardly exciting spread on semi-toasted slices of baguette.
It seems The White Heart might develop to become a very different place on weekends than during the week, and people will be able to pick their night to find what they are looking for. In the meantime, if you are making that walk westward from the Old Port’s depravities, or meeting some folks for a drink before a show at Space, watch for the dim white-neon glow of a heart over the door, and enjoy the middle ground of Portland’s drinking scene.
The White Heart | 551 Congress St, Portland | Daily 5 pm-1 am | 207.828.1900
Email the author
Brian Duff: bduff@une.edu
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This article originally appeared in the March 5, 1998 issue of the Boston Phoenix.
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