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Restaurant Reviews

Privius Lounge

Sashimi for the dancing set
I thought I had Privus figured out based on what owner Jarlath Quinn had done with his popular bar, The Kells, located right next door.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | August 27, 2008

Benatti

Off the charts, off the map
Even a slice of zucchini makes you want more . . . zucchini. You are perhaps vegan? Order two of these and sneer at the carnivores of the world.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | August 20, 2008

Jo Jo Taipei

Seldom enjoyed; thoroughly enjoyable
The contemporary cuisine of Taiwan, for its part, is influenced by Chinese, Spanish, Dutch, and Japanese colonists.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | August 08, 2008

Shabu-Zen

The soup is definitely on
A new generation of Japanese water-fondue restaurants has won me over.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | July 30, 2008

The Publick House

Grab a drink while you wait
The true focus here is the far frontiers of craft brewing, especially the many styles of Belgian ales.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | July 23, 2008

And you thought Taberna de Haro was authentic . . .
A divorce and new partners have put Julio de Haro in the position to open Estragon, a larger restaurant with a 1930s-tapas-bar theme. Nostalgia deepens authenticity, no?

By: ROBERT NADEAU | July 16, 2008

Tashi Delek

Fine Tibetan cuisine — freed from Chinese influences
The total Tashi Delek experience is larger than the food or the room, or even the caring service from the lone mid-week waitress.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | July 09, 2008

Vintage Lounge

Simplify, simplify — and enjoy the wine
As often happens at wine festivals, the wine at Vintage is actually more exciting than the food.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | July 02, 2008

Wisteria House

Newbury Street’s loss is Cambridge’s gain
As one of Boston’s first Taiwan-style restaurants, Wisteria House had a 10-year run on Newbury Street. It has now moved its operations to Cambridge.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 25, 2008

Highland Kitchen

Won’t you be our neighbor?
It's a restaurant with a menu that goes from diner to bistro without missing a world beat. There’s some pretty good American roots music on the jukebox, too.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 18, 2008

Orinoco

Definitely worth the wait
So what’s all the excitement about?

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 11, 2008

Pho Republique

Refined fusion done right
Retro done right sits well with me, and the refined fusion dishes here can be remarkable.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 04, 2008

Persephone

Fit for the gods
Modern, locavore, green, and dazzling.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 28, 2008

Hungry Mother

Beverly Hillbillies food goes to Paris
Platters such as “catfish pâté” can be visually hilarious, but also really delicious.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 21, 2008

Minsok Restaurant

Skip the sushi, stay for the serious Korean dishes
On two more visits, it became clear that Minsok is mainly a very serious Korean restaurant, rather than a Japanese sushi place.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 14, 2008

The Blarney Stone

A Dorchester bar transfomrs, with mixed results
What’s the unlikeliest restaurant transformation?

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 07, 2008

Lobby Bar & Kitchen

Room for improvement
We walked into Lobby the same day the Boston Globe ’s critic slammed the place — meaning, she gave it only one star.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 30, 2008

Church

No religious experience, but decent Italian food
The former occupant of this space, the old Linwood Grill, wasn’t such a bad bar.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 23, 2008

Shiki

Another Brookline sushi place? It’s actually a welcome addition.
I recently learned I made an error when I wrote that 147 places sell sushi in Brookline.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 16, 2008

Small plates

Good food, small packages
Why spend a lot of money on advertising when you have a menu dedicated to small plates and can name the restaurant after the concept?

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 09, 2008

Vee Vee

Style and substance, hold the meat
The Vee and Vee here are owners Kristen and Dan Valachovic.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 02, 2008

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