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Letter from London

By LLOYD SCHWARTZ  |  September 5, 2008

The greatest of the London Vermeers, The Music Lesson, belongs to the queen and usually hangs in the Queen’s Gallery, near Buckingham Palace. But this summer, it was moved to the palace’s own art gallery, so to see it you had to take the tour — which turns out to be a treat. You pay your money, you wait on line, you get your acoustiguide, and you follow the crowd through glitzy staterooms hard to tell apart from Hilton lobbies. This summer, for the first time ever, the public could see the grand ballroom set up for a glittering state banquet. And since you’re allowed to proceed at your own pace, I could spend as long as I liked looking at that Vermeer or at Rembrandt’s dazzling portrait of Agatha Bas.

The British Museum (with its atrium designed by Norman Foster, architect of the new plan for Boston’s MFA) hasn’t lost its charm. I popped in to see the Parthenon marbles and an expensive exhibit devoted to the Roman emperor Hadrian that didn’t pussyfoot around his homosexuality. The National Portrait Gallery had a memorable little show of incisive portraits by Wyndham Lewis: Eliot, Pound, Spender, Joyce, and a couple of Sitwells among the writers.

And since London has become one of the world’s most international cities, you can eat very well at the now countless extraordinary (though pricy) restaurants. Amazing how many different ethnicities you can devour and how many languages you can overhear — sometimes even English.

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ARTICLES BY LLOYD SCHWARTZ
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  •   OPEN SPACES  |  December 02, 2009
    In my review of the memorable Brahms performances Sir Simon Rattle led with the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra for the Celebrity Series of Boston last month, I should have mentioned that one decision responsible for the beauty and spaciousness of the orchestral sound was the placement of the first and second violin sections on opposite sides of the stage.
  •   CREATIONISTS  |  November 18, 2009
    Simon Rattle and the BPO, Fabio Luisi and the BSO, John Harbison and Emmanuel Music
  •   ALMOST  |  November 12, 2009
    The Boston Lyric Opera comes maddeningly close to having a good Carmen . (The production continues at the Shubert Theatre through November 17.) Keith Lockhart leads a superb orchestra and chorus and a cast of plausible singers/actors in a compelling if not spine-tingling performance.
  •   BLESSINGS: MIXED AND OTHERWISE  |  October 28, 2009
    By odd coincidence, in recent weeks we’ve had performances of two important operatic rarities, landmark early works a century apart: 30-year-old Handel’s Amadigi (1715) and 20-year-old Rossini’s Tancredi (1813, his 10th opera!).
  •   IN THE SWIM  |  October 14, 2009
    My head’s swimming.

 See all articles by: LLOYD SCHWARTZ

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