The greatest of the London Vermeers, The Music Lesson, belongs to the queen and usually hangs in the Queen’s Gallery, near Buckingham Palace. But this summer, it was moved to the palace’s own art gallery, so to see it you had to take the tour — which turns out to be a treat. You pay your money, you wait on line, you get your acoustiguide, and you follow the crowd through glitzy staterooms hard to tell apart from Hilton lobbies. This summer, for the first time ever, the public could see the grand ballroom set up for a glittering state banquet. And since you’re allowed to proceed at your own pace, I could spend as long as I liked looking at that Vermeer or at Rembrandt’s dazzling portrait of Agatha Bas.
The British Museum (with its atrium designed by Norman Foster, architect of the new plan for Boston’s MFA) hasn’t lost its charm. I popped in to see the Parthenon marbles and an expensive exhibit devoted to the Roman emperor Hadrian that didn’t pussyfoot around his homosexuality. The National Portrait Gallery had a memorable little show of incisive portraits by Wyndham Lewis: Eliot, Pound, Spender, Joyce, and a couple of Sitwells among the writers.
And since London has become one of the world’s most international cities, you can eat very well at the now countless extraordinary (though pricy) restaurants. Amazing how many different ethnicities you can devour and how many languages you can overhear — sometimes even English.
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Classical
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