Gourmet kitchen

By BRIAN DUFF  |  April 21, 2010

Nosh, thanks to specials and charcuterie that are somewhere between meaty tapas and little meaty entrees, recalls Duckfat’s brief experiment with serving small-plate meals along with sandwiches. We tried two with fish surrounded by sauces a bit too thick for proper drizzling. A very salty tuna carpaccio worked well with a thin mayo flavored by sriracha chili sauce. The crisp fried cod was lovely to look at: two golden brown balls in a garlicky romesco sauce. Under the crisp exterior the fish was tender and moist. Duck confit, on the other hand, looked like an ugly gray lump. But the big meaty leg offered plenty of rich, dark, tender meat, for just $5.

Finally Nosh answers the question: where next, poutine? Last year’s trend gets a pretty nice new treatment at Nosh. The steak-cut fries are crisp, but the thicker cut preserves the inner potato from greasy obliteration. They don’t overdo it with the thin gravy, or the soft cheese, so you don’t end up with a plate of goop. Little squares of pork belly, maybe a bit too crisp, mingle with the fries. One question we forgot to ask at Nosh: the board says that on request sandwiches “can be served over a salad.” In lieu of bread? Is it an Atkins thing? As it was we saw precious little green at Nosh. But we didn’t miss it much.

Brian Duff can be reached at bduff@une.edu.

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