La Masseria

By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  May 5, 2010

Among the entreés are three appealing chicken dishes, especially “grilled young chicken old country style.” There’s also oven-roasted rabbit and a grilled rib eye with fries for meat-and-potato eaters.
The desserts present the expected — tiramisu, crème bruleé, gelatos, and sorbets — with the unexpected — ricotta cheesecake and flourless chocolate-almond cake ($6-$8). The cake is “torta di Mamma Paola,” from Iuele’s mama, and it is so fabulous that I began finishing up other portions at the table!

The cheesecake is made with water buffalo milk ricotta, extremely smooth but with a gamey undertaste. My tablemates thought I was crazy, and Ruggerio mentioned that I was the first one he’d met who didn’t enthuse about it. That just exemplifies the subjective nature of tasting and telling.

La Masseria is a marvelous addition to the Italian scene in Rhode Island, and it has a carefully chosen wine list. I’d wager there are dishes here you won’t find at any other establishment, and each one is made with the care you’d want a family member to expend on a special dinner for your birthday (or Mother’s Day). 

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