Review: Trattoria Simpatico

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  August 10, 2010

For entrées, meat dishes slightly outnumber seafood, with steaks, Colorado lamb loin ($29.95), and duck with dried figs and a wild rice/farro risotto ($27.95). I felt like having fish, and my choices included Atlantic salmon ($22.95) with orange-scented crème fraîche, fennel pollen, and toasted cumin oil, and Atlantic striped bass ($27.95) with truffled steak frites and pickled onion slaw. I went for the swordfish ($24.95). It was about a half-inch thick, but I would have much preferred it to be half the size and twice as thick so it could have retained a touch of pinkness. It was served atop a black bean and corn salad, which itself was over what they called a citrus-cilantro ranch dressing. The “pickled lettuce wrap” of the menu description was nowhere to be seen.

Eight desserts ($6.95-$8.95) are made at Trattoria Simpatico, including imaginative mocha toffee crunch bars composed of frozen espresso and chocolate mousse; and something called chocolate sushi. We happened to order the dessert that isn’t kitchen-made, but we weren’t disappointed. The chocolate tartufo comes in white and dark chocolate versions, and the latter was terrific: encrusted with bittersweet chocolate, the chocolate ice cream had walnuts inside and fresh berries scooped on top. As I dug in, I entirely forgot my scenic streetside view.  

Bill Rodriguez can be reached atbill@billrod.com.

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