I started with a cup of chili ($2.50), which had a reasonable amount of ground beef, and pintos instead of, the common culinary heresy, kidney beans. Stuart sometimes just has a couple of different kinds of soup — there is also chicken and a soup of the day — for a light lunch. He began with just a simple side salad ($2.50/$3.45), heavy on the raw onion rings, with romaine lettuce. Eight dinners are listed, from lasagna ($7.95) to fried seafood ($7.50-$8.50). He chose the baked fish ($7.50), a delicious fresh cod, accompanied by steamed zucchini, broccoli, mushrooms, and onions.

They serve a half-dozen beers by the bottle, plus Miller and Sam Adams on tap by the mug as well as pitcher. There are also seven juices for teetotalers, not-before-6ers, and vegans to sip with their tofu scramblers. We had glasses of their quite drinkable table wine ($2.50, red only). That went nicely with my veal parmigiano over ziti ($8.50). The marinara sauce, also available over spaghetti or cavatelli, was thick and tasty enough, the pasta cooked just right.

There are no desserts listed, as is frequent with informal places that overfeed you. But you could have a cup of coffee and kitchen-made muffins — the cranberry-orange one is a winner. Or just order another soup and sprinkle in some sugar. Anything goes at Louis.

Bill Rodriguez can be reached atbill@billrod.com.

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