Review: Downcity

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  April 27, 2011

Soon I was staring covetously across the table again. The pan-seared salmon ($17), beautifully browned on the top, was served on a modest pile of linguine that was tossed with an absolutely tantalizing mustard cream sauce. Thin disks of cucumber were a smart bland complement to the sauce. Stuart loved the salmon, though I found my sample a little dry.

I was intrigued by the notion of and had to try the bacon-wrapped black Angus meatloaf ($14). Simply and appropriately, green beans and mashed potatoes were on the plate, whose centerpiece was a roll of meatloaf, not too bready, bound as described, next to thick cinnamon-sriracha sauce. To keep the meatloaf pink at center, the surrounding bacon couldn't be cooked as you'd want with your fried eggs. I wonder if crispy strips applied afterward would work better, a bit of bacon grease drizzled on separately. Just a thought.

For dessert there was molten chocolate cake and a root beer float, but we chose the vanilla bean cheesecake ($6). It's enjoyable by itself, with its graham cracker crust bottom, and is perched on an apple compote with tart green-skin chunks across from a pile of apple butter. Wonderful at twice the price. And Gordon would approve.

Bill Rodriguez can be reached at bill@billrod.com.

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