Review: Paragon

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  May 12, 2011

The French toast was not the advertised thick slice of Texas toast that could absorb a lot of egg mixture, just plain white bread. The fruit salad was excellent, though, with everything ripe, even the cantaloupe and honey dew.

There was only one pasta choice, though several are on the menu, when we went up for that — gluten-free rice curlicues slathered with pesto. Delicious; not too much garlic with the basil.

I was ready for that medium-rare prime rib and it was ready for me, carved just thickly enough and tender. The sole Française looked better than it tasted. It wasn't tilapia, thank goodness, but there should have been a station making this to order so the texture of the sautéed coating wouldn't be rendered too sodden by the lemon beurre blanc before you got to it.

The Sunday brunch buffet prices are adjusted nicely, according to your preferences — no paying for that mimosa you didn't have, or for the tyke who just picks at his plate. If you want that mimosa or bloody Mary, the meal is $18.99; with just coffee and soda refills or a single class of juice, it's $14.99. Kids under six eat free, and up to age 12 and their ravenous pubescence growth spurt, it's $7.99.

Eat hearty.

Bill Rodriguez can be reached at

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