Review: Posto

Top-notch Italian that's under the radar no more
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  August 4, 2011
4.0 4.0 Stars

With many pastas and pizzas, Posto features only three or four "segundi," typically including a burger and steak frites.

There are short, choice lists of beers (in bottles and on draft) and modern cocktails, and a longer list of wines by the glass, including eight older (and pricier) bottles preserved under nitrogen in an imported Enomatic Elite machine nicknamed "Enzo." Enzo put me onto a glass of 2005 Campo Di Marzo, brunello de Montalcino ($20; $42/carafe; $90/bottle), the kind of fully aged elite Tuscan wine I seldom taste even at home. My mechanically regulated four-ounce pour (in an extra-large version of the adequately large glassware here) showed quite well, initially rather acidic with some barnyard aromas, but settling in with a long flavor of cherry and a slightly bitter finish. Not a wine for gulping with your meatballs, but a treat on its own. A draft of Allagash White ($6.95) was a stronger, cleaner, subtler version of Blue Moon (they both imitate Belgian wheat beers), a little cloudy, with good hopping. The sangria ($9.95) comes white or black. The bianco has the citrus flavor and sweetness of Spanish red sangria, with the eye-appeal of a clear drink. But my heart was won with a rare perfect cup of decaf ($2).

The list of desserts isn't long, but all you really need is the panna cotta ($6) served over a layer of lemon curd in a stemless cocktail glass.

Posto has not evaded the neighborhood radar, and it fills up, even the extra outside tables. It is a duplex space (obligatory black ceiling, lots of windows, walls of bare brick and stone-look blocks), and it gets loud, too loud to discern the background music, which might include alternative rock and some flamenco. Table service is quite good. On another visit, I ended up at a corner of the bar, and the bartender that night didn't see the corners well. None of the tables are big enough for the food, whether you go mostly small plates, or head for the full-order pasta. The pizzas run around 14 inches, but don't make much chaos.

Posto, located at 197 Elm Street inSomerville (Davis Square), is open daily from 5 - 10:30 pm, and for Sunday brunch from 11 am - 3 pm.

Robert Nadeau can be reached at robtnadeau@aol.com.

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