Also efficient, but with a light touch, is the service at S&H. Food arrives quickly given the great care that seems to go into its preparation. They have found a very pleasant waitperson who knows German cuisine and culture, as well as the language, which makes her pronunciations of the dishes instructive. She clearly cares about the venture in a way that reminds you how much a single great server can help make a new place seem full of promise, like that kid Will in the early days of Miyake, and the woman who worked Bresca's dining room for its first few years.
Schulte & Herr is certainly as full of promise as any new Portland venture in the last few years. Let's hope it stays around for a long time, sticking to its core strengths even as it grows and changes.
Brian Duff can be reached atbduff@une.edu.
SCHULTE & HERR | 349 Cumberland Ave, Portland | Tues-Sun 8 am-3 pm | Visa/MC/Disc/Amex | 207.773.1997
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