Review: Persimmon

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  February 28, 2012

The experience continued. A bouillabaisse-style mix, from red snapper to octopus, the fish grilled crispy skin-side for texture. Sous-vide chicken, so moist from the time-consuming process. Pork belly with a hard-crust maple syrup and bourbon "glaze."

And then there were the desserts, plain and fancy. A simple vanilla yogurt panna cotta, and an apple, pear, and quince tart with almond paste, plus little poached balls of the first two fruit, softened but not too much. Just right.

Frustrated that his restaurant kitchen didn't have the room to butcher meats properly, last year Chef Speidel opened his own artisanal butchery, Persimmon Provisions, in Barrington. In addition to such items as house-made sausages, stocks, and charcuterie, the place offers prepared dishes for the lucky customers who are impelled to occasionally abandon their kitchens. Another opportunity, that is.

Persimmon | 401.254.7474 | persimmonbristol.com | 31 State St, Bristol | Tues-Thurs, 5-9 pm; Fri-Sat, 5-10 pm | Major credit cards | Full bar | Sidewalk-level accessible

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