Review: Persimmon

By BILL RODRIGUEZ | February 28, 2012

The experience continued. A bouillabaisse-style mix, from red snapper to octopus, the fish grilled crispy skin-side for texture. Sous-vide chicken, so moist from the time-consuming process. Pork belly with a hard-crust maple syrup and bourbon "glaze."

And then there were the desserts, plain and fancy. A simple vanilla yogurt panna cotta, and an apple, pear, and quince tart with almond paste, plus little poached balls of the first two fruit, softened but not too much. Just right.

Frustrated that his restaurant kitchen didn't have the room to butcher meats properly, last year Chef Speidel opened his own artisanal butchery, Persimmon Provisions, in Barrington. In addition to such items as house-made sausages, stocks, and charcuterie, the place offers prepared dishes for the lucky customers who are impelled to occasionally abandon their kitchens. Another opportunity, that is.

< prev 1 | 2 |

Topics: Restaurant Reviews , food, Champe Speidel, cooking, More

| More

Most Popular

The Current Issue

Table of Contents

Cover Archive

Masthead | Authors | Contact us

Blogs

Where To Follow Me
Talking Politics | March 24, 2013 at 11:09 AM

Mo Takes His Turn
March 21, 2013 at 12:59 PM

[Q&A] KMFDM's Sascha Konietzko on art, Columbine and having balls
On The Download | March 18, 2013 at 3:22 PM

See this film series: The Belmont World Film Series @ Studio Cinema in Belmont
Outside The Frame | March 18, 2013 at 11:00 AM

See this film: This is Spinal Tap [with post-film talk by expert from Acoustical Society of America] @ the Coolidge
March 17, 2013 at 12:00 PM

ARTICLES BY BILL RODRIGUEZ

THE PLAY'S NOT THE THING | June 18, 2013
Historian Charles L. Mee is also a playwright with a lengthy list of works to his credit, but he could more accurately be called an anti-playwright. Having declared that “there is no such thing as an original play,” he has proceeded, typically, to assemble and reconstruct theater pieces from found texts.

ONE DAY AT A TIME | June 18, 2013
As someone says toward the end of this intriguing social-study kitchen-sink drama, it’s easy to get along with people you don’t deal with every day, who don’t know you inside out and can make you feel terrible with just a look.

UPSTAIRS, DOWNSTAIRS | June 12, 2013
What a clever idea. Use the same cast and adjacent sets, and develop characters and their stories into two plays that stand alone but also offer the bonus of familiarity to audience members who see them both.

UNSETTLING SLICES OF LIFE | June 11, 2013
' BOB: Blessed Be the Dysfunction That Binds ' is about Anne Pasquale’s experiences growing up with a “special needs person” with schizophrenic tendencies, a balancing act of love and trepidation. Bob, you see, could be violent.

AND JUSTICE FOR ALL? | June 04, 2013
Don't ever get arrested for a serious crime. That's one of the infuriating lessons learned from ' The Exonerated ,' a drama of justice delayed written by Jessica Blank and Erik Jensen.