Review: SoHo

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  March 27, 2012

My dining mate searched among the entrées for her choice. Two items were the restaurant's signature dishes: SoHo Diane ($31), a 10-ounce grilled prime filet with a Dijon mustard sauce; and veal SoHo ($20), with a daring, for veal, garlic demi-glace. She discussed having the cod Livornese ($18.50), a traditional Neapolitan red sauce preparation served over linguini, but went for the chicken piccata ($18), perhaps still savoring the lemon on that salad. There were lots of sun-dried tomatoes and capers on top, accompanied by roasted potatoes that she found bland but which were "made up for by the broccoli rabe."

After the meal, chef Andrew Curado said that he's fine with customers ordering off the menu, if the kitchen has the ingredients and he knows the recipe. He "started cooking seriously at 15 or 16," has worked in restaurants for north of 20 years, and this is the first restaurant kitchen he's been in charge of.

To top things off, we shared one of the kitchen-made desserts, Sicilian ricotta pie ($6). Drier than the usual cheesecake, its topping was subtle: a cinnamon-infused firmer version of the spice sauce drizzled around it. Clever.

Nice place, SoHo. And you don't have to grumble about finding a Manhattan parking spot.

Bill Rodriguez can be reached at  billrod.mail@gmail.com.

SOHO | 401.789.7646 | 21 PIER MARKET PLACE, NARRAGANSETT | MON-SAT, 4 PM-CLOSING | MAJOR CREDIT CARDS | FULL BAR | SIDEWALK-LEVEL ACCESSIBLE

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