Review: Holy Donut

By BRIAN DUFF  |  May 9, 2012

Holy Donuts have been available for many months at cafés across town, but now you can pick them up at their own shop on Park Avenue near Hadlock Field. It doesn't look too much like a traditional doughnut shop, but manages to feel comfortable like one. Big couches fill one side of the room, and a few tables the other. Many customers sit at the counter by the window. The coffee is good (it's Coffee By Design, and includes a special Holy Donut blend). They are planning to offer breakfast sandwiches and other savory food in the near future.

Engaging the infant within us in a way that is responsible and adult is a crucial task for our times. In a culture of consumption such as ours, where even our most responsible public figures, like Paul Krugman, say the only solution to our current problems is to "increase demand" — which means "consume more!" — the experience of regression toward insatiable infantile greed takes on heightened importance. The doughnut has long been among our most infantile and regressive of indulgences. There is a reason they are shaped like that. In growing them up a bit, Holy Donut helps reconcile our infantile greed with our adult capacities.

Holy Donut | 194 Park Ave, Portland | $15/dozen | Mon-Fri 6:30 am-3 pm; Sat 7:30 am-3 pm; Sun 8 am-3 pm | 207.874.7774

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , food, restaurants, potatoes,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BRIAN DUFF
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   BLUE ROOSTER GOES HIGH-END INFORMAL  |  May 16, 2013
    If you want to know what making a food truck into an actual restaurant will be like, check out the new Blue Rooster Food Company
  •   AT BUCK’S, NAKED IS THE WAY TO BE  |  May 09, 2013
    At Buck's Naked BBQ the meat is cooked plain — without being infused or coated with in any particular sauce. This is meat we can relate to.
  •   BOHEMIA FOR BUSINESS FOLK  |  April 17, 2013
    Nietzsche thought that "however vigorously a man may seem to leap over from one thing into its opposite, closer observation will nonetheless discover the dovetailing where the new building grows out of the old." So it is at the North Point, a new Old Port restaurant and drinking spot run by a transplanted New York restaurateur and his brother.
  •   KUSHIYA BENKAY FINDS LOVELY HARMONY  |  April 10, 2013
    What is most pleasing about Kushiya Benkay, a sort of skewer-pub from the folks at Benkay Sushi, is the way it brings together several impulses without going too crazy about any particular one.
  •   SACO STAR: LUIS’S PHENOMENAL AREPAS  |  March 20, 2013
    You might want to hug Luis, or at least flirt with the guy, because he is creating first-rate arepas in his charming little shop.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF