The specialty pizzas have names like the Bunky, the Lemmy, and the Jennyooooo (I guess she likes garlic, fresh spinach, red onions, and yellow roasted tomatoes under her mozzarella). The large one we took home was the Come to Jesus ($22), which was stippled with sun-dried tomatoes and sun-dried tomato pesto, along with feta, caramelized Vidalias, coarse black pepper, and just enough garlic. It certainly didn't suffer for being gas-oven-baked, and neither did we.

But we had a couple of small wood-fired ones there, the Carpenter and the Billy Lightning ($17 and $16). The first had little islands of Carpenter's Farm beef sausage as the eponymous feature; the other wasn't less delicious for being meatless and simple, with feta and ricotta joining the caramelized onions and garlic.

Of course, what lifted both above pizza hoi polloi were those little burned spots on the bottom. They're not listed among the ingredients, but they are guests of honor.

Get there by October, when it closes for a few months of fond recollections.

LA STRADA | 401.284.2253 | LASTRADAWFPIZZA.COM | 920 MATUNUCK BEACH RD, SOUTH KINGSTOWN | TUES-THURS, 5-9:30ISH PM; FRI-SUN, 12-11ISH PM | MAJOR CREDIT CARDS | BEER + WINE | SIDEWALK-LEVEL ACCESSIBLE

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