Unfortunately, while fennel and Pernod were listed ingredients in my lobster and seafood stew ($27), prompting me to order it rather than the espresso and cocoa braised short ribs ($23), there was no evidence of either in the taste of broth. There's a lesson here: that broth was rich and tasty from the half lobster, mussels, littlenecks, and lots of baby octopi; it would have been appreciated even more without the misdirection.
Johnnie's cornmeal-crusted native cod ($16) was enthusiastically enjoyed, as was her lightly vinegared, coarse-cut coleslaw. The shoestring potatoes were a crunchy contrast, but she wished they were a tiny bit thicker so as to stay creamy inside.
Desserts? All eight bucks. No room. Next time maybe the plum tart tartin with brie or the chocolate ricotta fritters with vanilla bean cream.
Bill Rodriguez can be reached at bill@billrod.com.
PLUM PT. BISTRO | 401.667.4999 | PLUMPTBISTRO.COM | 1814 BOSTON NECK RD, SAUNDERSTOWN | TUES-SUN, 4-10 PM | MAJOR CREDIT CARDS | FULL BAR | SIDEWALK-LEVEL ACCESSIBLE
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Restaurant Reviews
, Saunderstown, RISD
