Review: Pizzeria Mezzo

By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  September 12, 2012

The restaurant is snug and low-key, with paper placemats, café tables and chairs, soft coral walls turning to creamy yellow near the open kitchen, which is framed by a gentle arch in the ceiling and, in the middle of the arch, the familiar pine cone (a la Federal Hill), a symbol of welcome. Blown-up black-and-white photos of Russo's family members in Italy (making gnocchi, baking bread) lend authenticity and hominess to the space.

Our last treat at Pizzeria Mezzo was a modest dessert: cannolis ($2.50 each), using imported Sicilian shells (Russo chose them for their distinctive crunch) and house-made filling, with slightly sweetened ricotta. We've heard the coffee and friends (espresso, et al.) are also excellent. We're looking forward to a time when this restaurant can sustain a lunch crowd — we know at least one table will be filled on a weekly basis.

Johnette Rodriguez can be reached atjohnette.rodriguez@cox.net.

PIZZERIA MEZZO | 401.284.0052 | 32 OLD TOWER HILL RD, WAKEFIELD | TUES-SAT, 5-10 PM; SUN, 4:30-8:30 PM | MAJOR CREDIT CARDS | BEER + WINE | SIDEWALK-LEVEL ACCESSIBLE

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