'This skin maceration goes almost as long as Gravner — six months. It's lacy and aromatic in a gingery, spicy kind of way. It's fresh and clean, and it's almost minty. Its tannins are moderate. It's not fruit-forward in any way, and it's just giving me minerals and . . . nut skins."
5 "AGENO," LA STOPPA, 2007
Region: Emilia Romagna. Grapes: 60% malvasia, 40% ortuga and trebbiano.
"This is, to me, the most like mulled cider in the nose. Apples, cooking spices — it's unbelievable. It just makes me think all over the orange spectrum: orange peel, pith, candied peel, the whole realm. It's really well integrated. It rivals Gravner for complexity; it's got so many layers. It's the most red-wine-like of them all, and it would go great with something like blood sausage or pig trotter with lentils. It can take on meat really well."WINE AND DINE Wine gets tannins — compounds that impart an astringent taste — from grape skins, so the longer the skins stay on, the more tannic the wine. "The tannins are exactly why these need food," Vilardi notes. Try pairing orange wines with meat, salty dishes, honey, balsamic, and hearty fare like lentils.
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