Desserts don't run much lighter: typical is a triple chocolate terrine ($7), dense and intense, barely edged with toasted hazelnuts, whipped cream, and a dollop of tart-cherry compote. Service is affable with occasional rough edges; having to shout to be heard over the roar of the weekend crowds here may result in the odd miscommunication. But in general, Park represents a worthy and value-priced addition to its nearby Harvard Square sibling restaurants, pitched somewhere between the more modest pub fare of Grafton Street and the dreamy gastropub heights of big brother Russell House Tavern. There's easily enough quality on the plate and in the casual, convivial ambience to make you quite forget you're in a parking-garage basement.

>> @MCSLIMJB

PARK RESTAURANT & BAR | 59 JFK St, Cambridge | 617.491.9851 :: parkcambridge.com

CASK BEER THURSDAYS :: Every Thursday at 5 pm, Park unveils a cask-conditioned beer: unfiltered, unpasteurized, naturally carbonated beer that ferments in the cask it's served from, sans any added nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

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