The fish's variety comes as a surprise each week, but it comes with a recipe. You learn to roast unctuous monkfish tails (no longer "the poor man's lobster"), and beer-batter Acadian redfish (a great substitute for tilapia or snapper), and prep pollock for fish tacos. It turns out that 90 percent of the fish Americans eat is imported, and 90 percent of the fish landed in Maine goes out of state. Even in Portland grocery stores, cheaper, frozen-at-sea haddock from Norway and Iceland outsells the haddock brought in by local boats. So do your part. Plus, fresh, unadulterated fish, "the last wild protein" as Portland Fish Exchange's Bert Jongerden calls it, simply tastes better.

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