Review: Trattoria Longo

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  May 13, 2013

I could go on in detail about our main dishes, but you get the idea. Sole Francese ($20) so light I could swear my sample floated off the fork into my mouth. Veal parmagiana ($18) — yes, I chose the humble veal parmagiana, knowing it would be definitive — generous with mozzarella and a tomato sauce both sweeter and tarter than that on my massive side of penne ($4). Rigatoni with "Sunday pork sauce" ($14.50) — delicious, with big chunks as well as ground sausage. And chicken saltimbocca ($16), two cutlets completely covered with prosciutto di Parma and that mozzarella, under a delicate white wine finish.

I'm now sure that heaven has Italian restaurants.

Nobody leaves a well-appreciated Italian meal not full, so none of us was up to having a dessert ($6-$8) to ourselves. Cannoli, cheesecake, and chocolate cake are permanently on the menu. Kitchen-made tiramisu and crème brûlée were also available, so we decided to all have a taste of the latter. We each quickly regretted our restraint. The mound of whipped cream seemed like gilt on a lily, but it actually enhanced the lightness of the custard. A smile-inducing end to a fine meal.

TRATTORIA LONGO |401.315.2952 | TRATTORIALONGO.COM | 12 CANAL ST, WESTERLY | SUN + WED + THURS, 5-9 PM; FRI-SAT, 5-10 PM | MAJOR CREDIT CARDS | FULL BAR | SIDEWALK-LEVEL ACCESSIBLE

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