Learn to love sour and bitter

By BRIAN DUFF  |  November 20, 2013

Several “børds” offer ingredients to pile on crisp crackers, divided by theme. The Fisher featured a great fatty salmon, barely smoked, along with mussels and pickled shallots. The Hunter had a creamy pale mortadella, along with chewier slices of two salamis — a sopressta and a cacciatore — both more fatty and sweet than salty.

The spirit of Hunt and Alpine invokes manly independence (precisely the qualities the right fears the welfare state will undermine) even as you sit passively and get served. Perhaps there is a point of connection between our current obsessions with how we eat and a government focused on the technicalities of care for its population — the politics of “life continuation” dismissed by Hannah Arendt in The Human Condition. In making the food and drink of the world’s great welfare states so appealing, especially in incorporating the bitter and the sour into something quite pleasant, Hunt and Alpine makes dependence feel pretty good.

$ PORTLAND HUNT AND ALPINE CLUB | 75 Market St, Portland | daily 4 pm-1 am | Visa/MC/Amex | 207.747-4754

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