So does foie gras pass the Nietzschean test? I don’t think so. Great food, life-affirming food, offers enough cruelty without it. Nietzsche thought that beautiful life creates torment along the way, but he would not have had us stop to methodically torture a duck. The great Sam Hayward of Fore Street was not at his best when he, in last Sunday’s Portland Press Herald, discussed the finer points of humane avian throat rape — even intimating that some ducks want it. Chef Jesse Souza of Natasha’s, who sat down with me to discuss foie gras at length, seems perplexed by the special attention his restaurant is getting, but ready to prepare great menus without foie gras. I think there will be more like him in Portland soon, and that would be fine with Nietzsche.
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