Thai Spice

Slow and steady wins the race
By LIZ BOMZE  |  October 24, 2006

You don’t go to Thai Spice for speedy service. Thai food — and most other Southeast Asian food, for that matter — is notoriously the fastest alternative to McDonald’s, Wendy’s, or KFC, but this tiny West Roxbury storefront’s forte isn’t the clock. Still, its talented and friendly family’s expertise in the kitchen is worth the wait.

If you sit in the chairs across from the kitchen while waiting for your take-out — the popular option, since there are only two or three tables here — you can watch the chef prepare everything from the thin scallion pancakes ($4.50) and the tater-tot-like shrimp shumai ($4.50) to more than a dozen noodle dishes. Fine egg noodles are traditionally topped with chicken, shrimp, eggs, carrots, bean sprouts, and a sprinkle of ground peanuts in crispy pad Thai $8.50), while the crazy noodle ($8.50), pad see ew ($8.50), and lad na ($8.95) all feature the beloved wide chow foon noodles. Spicy, savory, and mildly sweet, respectively, these three dishes vary dramatically, though none skimps on the fresh vegetables and protein (tofu is especially good here). Chili-phobes would be wise to beware of the green curry ($9.50): those three little pepper icons mean business.

Thai Spice, 1745 Centre Street, West Roxbury | open Mon.- Fri., 11:30 am - 10 pm; Sat., 2 - 10:30 pm; Sun., 4 - 10 pm | 617.469.0002

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