Munch a brunch

By BRIAN DUFF  |  November 29, 2006

Even better were the breads, cakes, and pastries. I loved the small slices of sweet, oat-y toast with blackened edges. The multigrain pancake, big and oblong to fit the plate, had a subtle sweetness and a hint of the crunch of barley. The cinnamon rolls are legendary from the old place and rightfully so — they are flaky and buttery rather than bready, and liberally spotted with big dark clusters of cinnamon and sugar and bits of walnut. In the breakfast sandwich the very good wheat and honey roll sort of overwhelmed the egg, cheese, and sausage.

The décor is quirky rather than Front Room elegant, and I wish you could peer out the windows (they are painted) from the comfortable booths — especially to check out the morning crowd at Sangillo’s across the street. The coffee is a touch weak, but the place is so pleasant you don’t mind much. The Good Egg is good breakfast. It is less like relativity or passionate love and more like the Bohr atom, or a reliable life partner. It’s not quite transcendent, but still deeply satisfying — and you can count on it.
< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Science and Technology, Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BRIAN DUFF
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   BLUE ROOSTER GOES HIGH-END INFORMAL  |  May 16, 2013
    If you want to know what making a food truck into an actual restaurant will be like, check out the new Blue Rooster Food Company
  •   AT BUCK’S, NAKED IS THE WAY TO BE  |  May 09, 2013
    At Buck's Naked BBQ the meat is cooked plain — without being infused or coated with in any particular sauce. This is meat we can relate to.
  •   BOHEMIA FOR BUSINESS FOLK  |  April 17, 2013
    Nietzsche thought that "however vigorously a man may seem to leap over from one thing into its opposite, closer observation will nonetheless discover the dovetailing where the new building grows out of the old." So it is at the North Point, a new Old Port restaurant and drinking spot run by a transplanted New York restaurateur and his brother.
  •   KUSHIYA BENKAY FINDS LOVELY HARMONY  |  April 10, 2013
    What is most pleasing about Kushiya Benkay, a sort of skewer-pub from the folks at Benkay Sushi, is the way it brings together several impulses without going too crazy about any particular one.
  •   SACO STAR: LUIS’S PHENOMENAL AREPAS  |  March 20, 2013
    You might want to hug Luis, or at least flirt with the guy, because he is creating first-rate arepas in his charming little shop.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF