Soup for you

By BRIAN DUFF  |  February 14, 2007

More sour soups are on offer at Browne Trading on Commercial Street, where you get pretty good soup for less money than just about anywhere else — $4 for a pint, and $7 for a quart. That sour flavor was not unpleasant, just a little unexpected, in the crab with asparagus in a thick creamy broth. It was filled with big, flat, white pieces of crab that did not make the soup taste very crabby. The asparagus was very soft, and could have used a bit more crunch. A soup of spicy shrimp and sausage offered bitter cabbage in a bitter broth, with the taste of paprika and pepper. Red beans, stewed tomatoes, tiny shrimp, and little chunks of sausage lurked in the thin, pale, orangish liquid. The first spoonful sort of shocked my palate, but I grew to like this soup as I went along.

It seems that some day soon there will be a new place dedicated to soup. Acoustic Coffee has renamed itself Goat’s Head Soup (after the subdued Rolling Stones album), and seems to be working out some licensing issues before it reopens. But until there is a soup house on every corner we will have to bundle up and brave the cold to get the nourishing warm liquid our souls require. Soup places don’t deliver.

Ladle | 58 Exchange St, Portland | 207.874.7687

Duckfat | 43 Middle St, Portland | 207.774.8080

Browne Trading | 262 Commercial St # 3, Portland | 207.775.7560

Email the author
Brian Duff:

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Food Features , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Foods,  More more >
| More

Most Popular
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   THE QUAY TO GOOD LIVING  |  July 11, 2014
    Though they offer an appealing moral clarity, in practice zero tolerance policies have ruined any number of urban schools, fragile marriages, and card-marred soccer games. Zero tolerance almost ruined Portland a few years back, too.
  •   BITING INTO THE FANTASY  |  July 10, 2014
    Is it a sign of the shallowness of our national culture that we have spent half a decade excited by the idea of food served from trucks? Sure. But is it a symptom of some deeper condition? I suspect so. This summer offers a chance to investigate thanks to the arrival of a critical mass of food trucks around Portland, along with the film Chef, about a restaurant chef who starts a food truck.  
  •   A RAIL-CAR PALACE IN BIDDEFORD  |  June 11, 2014
    The barrel roofed train-car looks incredibly good given it’s nearly a century old.
  •   FINDING BALANCE IN BRISKET  |  June 06, 2014
    Salvage might suggest a plausible strategy to...salvage the distinctive experience of casual dining in Maine.
  •   THREE TIMES LUCKY  |  May 16, 2014
    Miyake’s new diner reclaims the location of his original restaurant, the wonderful Food Factory. 

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF