Soup for you

By BRIAN DUFF  |  February 14, 2007

More sour soups are on offer at Browne Trading on Commercial Street, where you get pretty good soup for less money than just about anywhere else — $4 for a pint, and $7 for a quart. That sour flavor was not unpleasant, just a little unexpected, in the crab with asparagus in a thick creamy broth. It was filled with big, flat, white pieces of crab that did not make the soup taste very crabby. The asparagus was very soft, and could have used a bit more crunch. A soup of spicy shrimp and sausage offered bitter cabbage in a bitter broth, with the taste of paprika and pepper. Red beans, stewed tomatoes, tiny shrimp, and little chunks of sausage lurked in the thin, pale, orangish liquid. The first spoonful sort of shocked my palate, but I grew to like this soup as I went along.

It seems that some day soon there will be a new place dedicated to soup. Acoustic Coffee has renamed itself Goat’s Head Soup (after the subdued Rolling Stones album), and seems to be working out some licensing issues before it reopens. But until there is a soup house on every corner we will have to bundle up and brave the cold to get the nourishing warm liquid our souls require. Soup places don’t deliver.

Ladle | 58 Exchange St, Portland | 207.874.7687

Duckfat | 43 Middle St, Portland | 207.774.8080

Browne Trading | 262 Commercial St # 3, Portland | 207.775.7560

Email the author
Brian Duff: bduff@une.edu

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Food Features , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Foods,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BRIAN DUFF
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   DIVE BAR ALTERNATIVES  |  April 17, 2014
    The former allows you to drink under 13 stories of home-grown bankers and lawyers; at the other, you’re lounging above a dozen floors of business travelers and tourists.
  •   GIVE 'EM A HAND  |  April 10, 2014
    Pocket-sized comfort foods
  •   EXTREME LOCALISM  |  March 19, 2014
    Perhaps Vinland’s pontifications become white noise, which fades away as you appreciate the food and its distinctive coherence of flavors and textures — the Nordic, astringent, piney, ascetic goodness of it all.
  •   DISTINCTIVE SUBURBAN DINING  |  March 14, 2014
    It is the rare chef, for example, who can make ordering the “veggie plate” seem like a good idea in retrospect — but the one at Oscar’s was fantastic, with a great mix of colors and textures.
  •   CRACKING OUR HARD EXTERIORS  |  February 27, 2014
    These days it is mollusks like oysters, mussels, and clams (rather than crustaceous shellfish, like lobster, crab, and shrimp) that best represent our collective emotional temperament. 

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF